I tried your methanol /heptane without defacing the only thing I didn’t do was ph my bribe to 4. I was wondering how important that is to the process I was not able to remove all the waxes with my brine wash, not sure what went wrong I waved til no more emulsion layer like I normally do when degumming etc. but there were a lot of waxes that remained after I roto’d I check a small sample in alcohol to see if it worked and there was a lot of waxes . Any help would be greatly appreciated I’ll keep trying either way
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this method seems to be better at removing the terps. try winterizing in etoh before hand, then try the scrub.
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I was looking for a way to do liquid separation and not have to do a winterization/dewax. Maybe I miss understood it or misread it. I have used this way for terp and water soluble removal but was hoping to combine the 2 and save a steps and days for the dewax process without having to go to cold etho extraction
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Do you decarb before extracting? If so, what is your process for doing so?
How does your distillate turn out btw? What do you typically see for potency ranges?
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Decarb in the roto and strip as many volitales as possible there shouldn’t be any potency change. I regularly hit 90%+ and it makes your runs faster
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What temperature and pressure do you run your roto at for solvent recovery and then decarb? I’m just curious. I turned it up to supply additional heat transfer during recovery. I’m not sure if decarb occurs under vacuum or more specifically without O2. Doing additional steps in the rotovap makes a lot of sense to me. Rotos can’t go to high vacuum usually but they can go to higher temps if you use oil instead of distilled water in the bath. There’s a lot to consider with one’s choice of oil though. I couldn’t find an oil that would work.
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Usually after around 60c I empty all alcohol and then won’t keep anything else that comes out I use it for glass cleaning or adding to cold traps it’s loaded with terps and don’t want to compound it for prior runs. After that step I turn the temp to 145c ad it’s usually done decarbing by the time it reaches that temp and as much Vac as possible I unhook my controller and run pump straight to roto
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Duratherm S is the fluid/oil I have been using for years easily goes to to 165c with no degradation
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In my oil research I talked to some folks who pointed out that there’s a temperature range where it won’t degrade appreciably, but also a heat transfer flux (joules/cm^2 per second) that you should stay below. I did the math on my rotovap heating element and found out I was over. the flux depends on the surface area of the coil so I didn’t know how much I should worry if at all so I put the project on hold.
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I have been using the same duratherm in my 20l roto for well over a year I just top it off every other month or so
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hmm. See that’s what I figured would happen, but to some extent it depends on the heat transfer surface, be it a coil or whatever. If you’re interested I could tell you what he said and what I calculated. It might help you down the line and help to evaluate whether specific rotovaps can and can’t handle what oil, in case you were going to get another one someday. I suppose I should just put the info up anyway.
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I use the same oil in a Chinese and a across (which is also Chinese) both are coil heated and I can’t even imagine not decarbing in the roto.
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my across maxes out at 100c … how are you getting those temps ?
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You have to reprogram the across ones it’s in the manual how to get to the max temp screen, or just email them it’s been so long I don’t remember how I did it
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MeOH breaks down to methyl group plus OH- or (methoxy plus H+ in alkaline environment). Methylating biological systems could possibly be detrimental to life vs. ethyl group.
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Can u show me the link to breaking dabs method of extraction and distillation? Thank you
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Type breaking dabs. In the search bar aaa. Vviola iT pop s up in the. List
Happy reading
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Search in the search bar:grinning:
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Thanks new to forum
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Welcome read and read Some more but When in doubt ask ask away
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