I’ve got a grip of regular compressed to work thru. Gonna scoop some rice hulls.
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Ya ive been using rice hulls as well. From what agtonik said if its charred it breaks down faster so i did that and there was noticeable difference. It was kinda like when inused a big sample off power si granular stuff. The bag of rice hull will last for a loooong time
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The only prefill bags I’ve tried are the samples that floraflex sent out I personally don’t like them.
Char Coir is a dope brand,I used cloud coir for the last year but just switched to aeration from Botanicare, I like the loose coco because I like to be able to mix things like calcium and magnesium
Ya the floraflex ones make a huge mess the charcoir dont when hydrating them to WC. Mild cal mag to hydrate and they get good dry backs since the whole bag is porous.
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Alright so I am a huge fan of just read your plants…Amazing this to a T what most peoples plants are telling them…especially under LED.
More frequent lighter feeds = better product in every way. You will or should learn this on your journey when mastering coco if soil was too slow show you…increase usable light, co2, and raise humidity for increased transpiration and merry Christmas all year around.
Frequent feeds and coco reference: This was what led me to make frequent feeds/less nutes a steeple of my grow system. Just use the option to read only H3ads posts and watch some old school knowledge light bulbs go off.
Goes for soil too…play with some blumats sometime…Trick is getting equal moisture to all media not just parts…
Flower times decrease when plants have access to what they need 24/7…by 8-18 days (think hazes tropicals for higher days)~
I have lines I’ve bred done in day 46-48 no loss in yield, quality, or smell in coco. In hydro and aero cloning we all know higher water temps = quicker roots and all around growth right? With of course possible increased risk of growth of other things…
I ran blumats and 80-90 degree+ rez for a few test grows…Used enzymes to protect plants. Still remained amazing. Going to test that more in the future…
[quote=“Dukejohnson, post:82, topic:125160, full:true”]Check out the 
on my ig story highlights
I missed some pics toward the end of the flowering cycle but if you check the weeks back on a calendar you will find that the time lines up. I posted that picture 42 days into 12/12 and I had snapped it a few days before.
Selective stress + crop steering + good nutrients + high light + correct pruning + good genetics and this plant will surprise anyone.[/quote]
This is what I have found to be true on my own. Never heard of crop steering or this thread before. Day 68-74 plants started coming down at 56~ day average. I also quit flushing…610 ppm 321 jacks whole way through flower. Taste is as good as the plants look…
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I have been playing with the irrigation side of crop steering for awhile now. Floraflex has made this really easy, they’re site has all these “ templates” this on is for 15% drybacks in they’re 5gallon pots set for vegetive growth and breaks down the basic formula for the dry back / refresh process. I have found that the veg schedule is spot on however making small adjustments to the flower schedule has been quite beneficial as VERRY small adjustments make a big difference. Here’s some screenshots from the website.
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Revive!
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I crop steer with GrowLink and Agrowtek gear.
I went with cloud coir this run and I am running my moisture at 30%(lower than typical) and I am drying back over 20% with great success.
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When they say 30% dry back it means if your saturated water content is 50% that would you be drying back to 20%.
Example I’m in rockwool that’s saturating around 60% and to hit a 30% dry back during p3 I’m looking for it to dry to 30% not 42%.
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Those floraflex templates are gold for lamen breakdown of the whole process. Definitely recommend those as a good foundation to anyone trying to grasp sound approaches.
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Drying back from 50% to 20% is over 50% loss of moisture. What a retarded measure. But thanks for letting me know.
I just started my journey, but I found that you really are just looking for that sweet spot in saturation for whatever media you are using and then guaging an appropriate “dry back”.
Point me in the right direction please bro
Can we get some graph pics goin??? Finally starting to get the hang of the mid-late flower vegetative steering and the bud swelling is intense. Been using e-gro from grodan for the past 6 months or so and it’s been dope but I’m also curious about arroya and e-gro has it’s limitations.
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Looks like you’ve got it dialed in! Great work.
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Is blue your water and red tem or ec?
Blue is water content and red is EC. I usually don’t pay attention to root zone temp since it’s almost always just the same as ambient room temp. Even when my water has gotten down to 58 degrees it only seems to slightly cool the medium for a short period then shoots right back up to ambient temp.
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I’m ashamed off my graphs😂 I need to fully saturate them and see dry back to work out the % of the first feeding needed I been doing it back to front
Did this log ever happen.
Yep
I have seen multiple 4lb per light rooms at the facility I work at, 1000w de hps.
16-17day veg
I imagine the next building which will be led will easily achieve 5.
Really it should be grams per watt not lbs per light, especially when discussing leds.
Growlink has a cropsteering guide that is pretty accurate if you understand what they are saying to do, the description is very well laid out to understand exactly how it works.
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