This is the Auber ramp/soak flavor, model # SYL-something. 2xxx IIRC.
I have another almost identical one with the cycle timer branded “INKBIRD” on the faceplate but otherwise identical.
And the regular cheap PID:
1 Like
I have lots of Frankenstein stuff like that! Good memories. …and pid’s…
Update:
I got a 40cm thermo probe from open source for $20. Works great. Fixed my vacuum issue with some hose clamps, and now i’m pulling pale piss at 198c. THANKS FOR YOU HELP @cyclopath @Soxhlet and everyone else!!
Awesome bro!
I just tried out putting the probe between the bf and mantle. Took a second to get used to reading the temps differently. Mantle was at 250c when i ended with vapor temps at 195. Still got a lot of burnt material in the flask, so the temps did the same thing. Mantle still overheats.
Your vapor temp will always be lower than the heat supplyed by the mantle. Perhaps you are ramping up too quick? 195 c is pretty high for the main body fraction. Either your pump isn’t up to snuff, there is a leak, or the volitlies haven’t been fully removed before hitting the main body. Keep in mind your success in achieving a deep vaccum hinges upon the vapor pressure your boiling compound is generating. Generally I see the vaccum improve once my vapor temp climbs above 140c . I back the mantle down at this point because of the increased vaccum. Then I creep back up into the cannabinoids and make my fraction cut.
Most probably. I was stuck trying to get vapor temps up to 155. Had the mantle at 205c, vapor was at 95c. Nothing happened, then at around 2 hours in i upped the temps to 215-220 and then vapor went up to 187 and i switched flasks. I think I’m def having issues teaching my mantle how to be stable. I either end up with it wobbling between ±5-10 degrees went set temp is hit, or it just drops or over shoots. It’s really frustrating. This run i was trying to see the reflux happen and it did so at 187c vapor. Dropping below that seemed to stop the flow. I was at 600 microns for most of the mains.
I have a question for you using the probe between the mantle and flask. Do you now use single necked boiling flasks? I need some new flasks and I’m undecided where to put the probe, so any input would be appreciated. I would think removing any joints would help improve the vac.
1 Like
I had the same problem with the probe that came with a Chinese mantle I just ordered a longer one from amazon has the same 3 pin connection
hey man im having the same issues with the jkem controller and the probe beneath the boiling flask, Im wondering what your solution was: 1. to keep the thermocouple underneath the rbf 2. To get a glass thermowell for the probe. I know im asking for a spoon feeding but I can pay you with an amazon giftcard before you answer. Much appreciated
@cyclopath Did you ever find out how to go from the 4 pin to the type k thermocouple? I have the 4 pin kind and the k type doesn’t read correctly.
My mantle has the 5 pin connector like urs cheap chinese…is there a flat probe I can put between the mantle and probe bc the oss 15" one doesnt work well unless 4-5" under the oil…im running 500ml mantle and bf so I only have 250ml in it
If you are having problems with a mantle that would be expensive to replace I think your best fix would be to disconnect the power out from your PID, purchase a used j-kam temperature controller (they’re fucking awesome) and then the power coming out of the temperature controller hook up to the power going into your mantles heating element.
So do they not make a 500ml probe 5 pin circle connection like the guy I was replying to
They do make one. I’ll have to look and see who I ordered a replacement from.
When making disty does the stir bar have to be ran if so I may have to use the smallest one
Can it be done without stir bar pill
technically no but i wouldn’t operate without one, stir bar helps even heat out and prevent hot spots, adds energy/agitation to assist with evaporation (just like shaking up a soda bottle), etc. etc.
1 Like
What if it’s just a small stir pill
Also is there a way to cut the probe off and use just the wires to slide between the BF and mantle
Probably. Certainly if it’s a thermocouple. With a RTD or thermistor you need the bit at the end. With a thermocouple, the magic is in the wires themselves.
Simply put, if you succeed in making a clean bond between the two wires and the bond experiences the measured temperature uniformly, then it doesn’t matter what incidental metals are involved. Thus twisting, welding, soldering, crimping - they all work, until… Until corrosion sets in between the connections. Thus, twisting is the least preferable over time because the metal is neither fused nor crushed together sufficiently to form what’s termed “a gas tight connection.” That said, almost every experiment I ever run used twisted connections because it is easy.
Reference: Okay to twist thermocouple wires? | Physics Forums
To quote @Beaker
OSS mantles are made by joanlabs. Chinese they sell replacement probes for $9 at oss …it’s the 5pin circle plug for the probe but the probe they carry is 15inch long