I just got an Edwards e2m30 and it’s massive. Seems like it weighs over 100lb. To change the pump oil on my current pump (Welch CRV 4 Pro) I tilt the pump forward to fully drain the oil out. It has a handle on it which makes it pretty easy, although still somewhat precarious. I don’t see how that is going to work on the e2m30.
So, how do you change the oil on larger pumps? Just uncap and drain, no tilting? Seems like without tilting it forward, a lot of oil will remain. My thought is to uncap, drain oil, recap, fill with a bit of new oil, uncap drain. Any other tips? I saw @anon42519203 has a cool jack tilt thing to tilt the pump forward, but I don’t see anything like that in the cards for me anytime soon.
I’ve just cut a wooden wedge for mine… don’t know if it reall helps. I try to change the oil before it gets to gross, so I really don’t fully flush it like you mentioned. Given that I use it to run 4 ovens, I change the oil probably every three weeks
The more you pick up and accidentally drop a vacuum pump, the quicker it gets screwed up.
It really helps to have a helper pick up the back with you, while you wedge a wooden block underneath. Really, it’s the simplest solution—and you could probably do it yourself with an e2m30.
Another (possible) solution is placing a strap (like a trailer strap) around the back side of the pump and hoisting it up using a structural support (like a beam or a skid frame). Just tighten and loosen as needed
Replace the drain plug with a full bore ball valve and hose barb (or MJIC etc.)
Warm pump up with ballast open for at least 20 minutes
Drain pump on level surface while nice and hot with a length of clear tubing attached to the hose barb leading into a bucket (jar, whatever) until no more oil flows out
Use an engine hoist or lab jack stand (or piece of wood for ballers on a budget) to lift pump. Nice thing about the e2m28/30s is that the hole on top, right in the middle, is positioned such that lifting with a hook in this spot will naturally tilt the pump forward at a 45° angle.
Then turn the power on 3-4× for 3-4 seconds at a time to bleed the reservoir
This step is crucial every 4-5 oil changes FLUSH YOUR PUMP with flushing fluid by filling it and running, ballast open, for 20-30 minutes
Repeat draining steps 1-5
Fill with 19 grade or better vac oil. Aim for halfway between the MIN and MAX oil level in sight glass on front of pump
Would it be feasible to have the pump always sitting on two lab stands? When ur ready to change oil maybe you could jack up the lab stand in the back? Not sure if this would be a horrible idea or not I suggest steel toed boots before you try it lol
This like mind boggling for me lol. I’ve actually never worked with one of these big edwards pumps but every other big pump I’ve ever worked with doesn’t need to be tipped to drain fully. Usually the casting is designed to allow all the oil out without lifting the thing
Ah, well that would be nice. I have not actually had to change the oil yet. Still waiting on some bellows and stuff before I put the pump into service.
I just know that the Welch CRV 4 pro retains a good bit of oil if it’s not tilted forward. I believe the user manual even suggests doing so.
Single e2m28 on an 8" Ychem wiper sitting at 7.5 microns. This is a really old pump that hasn’t been rebuilt. I just follow the above regimen to keep her tippy top
Dry vac test on whole system…not running but already warmed up
a vacuum pump, the quicker it gets screwed up.
