Carbon always helps.
I am in a lul while my lab is being rebuilt so unfortunately i cant be playing with the distillate right now. So yes i have several darker fractions sitting in the freezer.
I have been wanting to try a filter through celite 545 though there are a few videos on youtube about it.
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Here’s a general video on how to utilize celite 545 and a carbon scrub.
You don’t have to use celite 545. It’s more used as a filter medium to reduce and carbon/charcoal throuput into your solution. I use the same method of same solvent/clean wash over a 1/4in think layer of powder activated carbon from Xtractor Depot to create my carbon layer/patty above my funnel filter paper. Then rinse out your Büchner flask and then filter your solution through your carbon layer and filter paper. Works every time for me.
First picture is winterized(x3), dewaxed(x3) and filtered. Still not my desired color.
Third picture is… all the above and ran through my carbon layer once. Extremely efficient de colorization and deodorization(if decarb’d already and has that smell/ or if you’re diluting your first pass and running it trough the carbon).
Second Picture is … all the above with a fresh carbon layer/patty created.
If you pass a darker solution through the carbon I’ve found that the single layer is sufficient to run roughly 5 liters through before needing to be replaced. If not replaced… the remaining undesirables will start to wash into your already cleaned solution. FYI no heated application was used during this carbon filtration test.
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Thanks for the reply. I have seen the video and it’s similar to what I’m doing. Some people say the carbon scrub works well for chlorophylls but not CBN oxidation? I’ll try another scrub and see if there’s any improvement. I’m filtering through DE right now, I have Celine in the way.
In that case, the red color is completely from oxidation and degradation. After so many bleaches , Dgum’s, scrubs and dewaxing… you’ve removed any UV protective molecules like lipids that actually in small increments help slow down the degradation process. My opinion is to do less scrubs, obtain a reasonable faint yellow color and call it a day if you care about shelf life. I do my short path runs for mass production Liters not carts. So a small yellow color, higher purity and longer shelf life is more important to me than water clear and oxidation problems. I’m sure you’ve heard this before… but the best way to stop degradation is to achieve you desired color… and after your distillate is finished… put in a vac oven to remove all possible atmospheric molecules and store is like that. Don’t run a continuous vac.(obviously unnessary once you’ve reached a fully evacuated chamber).
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I have notice once added back into your etho it turns red(oxidizes) very fast. I have a wash jar and will take new etho and wash the remaining distilate that looks water in 1ml carts and within about an hr the tho solution has a tint or is reddish, also noticed when fixing other distillate that is brought to me that once added back into alcohol it turns red quickly.
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The compound has oxidized a bit. Running a distillation will leave the red in the boiling flask which is mostly CBN and there is not much red needed to make a lot look like a ruby.
Heat accelerates the change to red exponentially. A carbon scrub of any kind is unlikely to remove it if indeed you have created some trace CBN. My compound turns red all the time if I leave it out and I often just run the stuff again to make it clear again.
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Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I don’t own a distillation setup currently. I have been thinking of playing with your isopropyl azeotrope tek to remove the waves and chlorophylls next time.
I have trouble using anything not food grade which in turn was not distilled out before putting them into a cartridge to vape.
Not sure how others feel about that
I have a jar that was made for me out of old nasty oil and the whole thing is red. Is the red CBN? Is there any way to fix it when the whole thing is like that?
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**_[quote=“NugNursery, post:19, topic:3343, full:true”]
Another CBleach scrub yielded a decent colour change, which I didn’t expect.
[/quote]
Do you have a vacuum oven?_**
I have a cheap vacuum chamber from best value vacs but no oven yet unfortunately.
No worries brother. I started back in the day with glass tubes that we had to jimmy rig, Pyrex trays and hot plates. Everybody has to start somewhere. If it weren’t for those damn glass tubes and whipping dirty Slabs I would’ve never found the sweet Ol dabs in the first place. “Sorry for the trip down memory lane.”
Ok a Vac it Pro will do just fine. Make sure you have a way to seal the chamber once a vac is pulled(ball valve, whatever). Once your solution is at a decent color or at least better than before the scrub…
These next set of steps should be preformed anytime you’re going to leave a solution,distillate for an extended amount of time before continuing to scrub or distill.
-Put it in the vac chamber(no heat, room temp will suffice)
-Pull a half or full vac(15-30inHG)or for roughly a few mins if you don’t have a gauge on your Vac it Pro
-Put Vac chamber in a dark, cold place thus to avoid UV to penetrate through your top(sight glass essentially) portion.
-leave solution in the vac chamber under full vac until you want to scrub again or if you get a SPD and run some Disty.
This will remove all the excess atmospheric oxygen and any remaining molecules in the air that excel degradation and oxygenation. This will slow down your degradation drastically.
Side bar- feel free to hit me up when you get a SPD and I’ll help ya with some runs.
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Thanks man, I really appreciate the elaborate reply. Hopefully I’ll get a SPD system in the near future. Any recommendations for entry level equipment?
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Of course brother, anytime.
I’ve ran through a few different brands when it comes to SP. I highly recommend @summitresearch if you want the best quality for application. They have awesome customer service and Elliot is pretty knowledgeable.
Start with a 2-5L set up. I’d honestly recommend a 5L at least. That way you can upscale when material is available to you.
I’m running the Summit Research SPD 6(10L), full bore laminar with a swing arm joint and I love it. It’s a monster and the new design is extremely efficient.
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Hey bro I’d love to chat with you about your system and sop. I have a 10L myself and is looking to upgrade my system. Also I’m having some trouble with oxidation while distillation. Would it be ok if I hit you up on email?
Yeah of course. I have a ton of winterized solution to scrub tonight. I’ll go over my emails in the am. 
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My scrubbing success has definitely improved. However the results are still a bit inconsistent. The first picture shows the original product post winterization (furthest left). The other 2 are after 1 scrub but the results are very different? The second picture is after 2 scrubs and the lighter product was originally the darker one?
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