CBleach scrub on red/amber oleoresin

Disclaimer: I have read all threads on carbon scrubbing, winterization and oxidation on this site.

Hi all,

I recently ran a cryogenic QWET as per Future’s SOP. I winterized the product twice and then proceeded to purge as I was happy with the colour of the oleoresin ( 1st picture). Long story short, I don’t own a rotary vap as of yet, my setup is for personal consumption and learning experience at the moment, I ended up overheating the purging process and resulted in a dark red extract due to oxidation (2nd picture, redissolved in ethanol). I tried to perform a Bleach scrub on this product with very little colour change and a slight increase in clarity. My questions are:

  1. Is the red colour due to THC degradation to CBN due to excessive heat exposure?
  2. Is the red colour oxidised gums?
  3. Should a CBleach scrub help with the red pigment?
  4. What would be your next step?

Thanks for the help!


Looks like your trying to pour up with some *sprite …interested to hear some answers had a batch that ended with same redish hues

What is the goal of the end product? Shatter? RSO? Just curious…

The goal is to add terps and fill cartridges.

I have had a similar color issue, if you will, and tried using c-bleach according to the dry bleaching instructions but filtered through a 2.5 micron paper filter. I didn’t achieve the results I wanted but I only tried it once and you may have different results. Let me know if you try it!

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I’m filtering through a silica slurry, on top of 11 micron filter paper.

Id guess CBN oxidation. This has happened to me. A little color goes a long way too, think a drop of food coloring in a water bottle.


Did you come up with a solution? Or did you just settle for dark extract?

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Carbon always helps.

I am in a lul while my lab is being rebuilt so unfortunately i cant be playing with the distillate right now. So yes i have several darker fractions sitting in the freezer.

I have been wanting to try a filter through celite 545 though there are a few videos on youtube about it.

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Here’s a general video on how to utilize celite 545 and a carbon scrub.

You don’t have to use celite 545. It’s more used as a filter medium to reduce and carbon/charcoal throuput into your solution. I use the same method of same solvent/clean wash over a 1/4in think layer of powder activated carbon from Xtractor Depot to create my carbon layer/patty above my funnel filter paper. Then rinse out your Büchner flask and then filter your solution through your carbon layer and filter paper. Works every time for me.

First picture is winterized(x3), dewaxed(x3) and filtered. Still not my desired color.
Third picture is… all the above and ran through my carbon layer once. Extremely efficient de colorization and deodorization(if decarb’d already and has that smell/ or if you’re diluting your first pass and running it trough the carbon).
Second Picture is … all the above with a fresh carbon layer/patty created.

If you pass a darker solution through the carbon I’ve found that the single layer is sufficient to run roughly 5 liters through before needing to be replaced. If not replaced… the remaining undesirables will start to wash into your already cleaned solution. FYI no heated application was used during this carbon filtration test.


Thanks for the reply. I have seen the video and it’s similar to what I’m doing. Some people say the carbon scrub works well for chlorophylls but not CBN oxidation? I’ll try another scrub and see if there’s any improvement. I’m filtering through DE right now, I have Celine in the way.

In that case, the red color is completely from oxidation and degradation. After so many bleaches , Dgum’s, scrubs and dewaxing… you’ve removed any UV protective molecules like lipids that actually in small increments help slow down the degradation process. My opinion is to do less scrubs, obtain a reasonable faint yellow color and call it a day if you care about shelf life. I do my short path runs for mass production Liters not carts. So a small yellow color, higher purity and longer shelf life is more important to me than water clear and oxidation problems. I’m sure you’ve heard this before… but the best way to stop degradation is to achieve you desired color… and after your distillate is finished… put in a vac oven to remove all possible atmospheric molecules and store is like that. Don’t run a continuous vac.(obviously unnessary once you’ve reached a fully evacuated chamber).


I have notice once added back into your etho it turns red(oxidizes) very fast. I have a wash jar and will take new etho and wash the remaining distilate that looks water in 1ml carts and within about an hr the tho solution has a tint or is reddish, also noticed when fixing other distillate that is brought to me that once added back into alcohol it turns red quickly.

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The compound has oxidized a bit. Running a distillation will leave the red in the boiling flask which is mostly CBN and there is not much red needed to make a lot look like a ruby.

Heat accelerates the change to red exponentially. A carbon scrub of any kind is unlikely to remove it if indeed you have created some trace CBN. My compound turns red all the time if I leave it out and I often just run the stuff again to make it clear again.


Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I don’t own a distillation setup currently. I have been thinking of playing with your isopropyl azeotrope tek to remove the waves and chlorophylls next time.

I have trouble using anything not food grade which in turn was not distilled out before putting them into a cartridge to vape.

Not sure how others feel about that

Another CBleach scrub yielded a decent colour change, which I didn’t expect.

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I have a jar that was made for me out of old nasty oil and the whole thing is red. Is the red CBN? Is there any way to fix it when the whole thing is like that?

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