I’m just trying to add as much deduced information to find the KW load of the heating element.
The c14 is ul listed and rated for 120v/15amp
The most gain you can expect from MOSFET/SSR is going to be 100amps.
And you are going to need more amps to get more ohms to heat that element. The easiest way to do that is to lower the voltage.
We really need to know the output voltage. I would be surprised if it’s 120v.
got that coffee in you yet?
Was going to mention this
Thanks
Now I have but I’m still hurting. I’m taking the email apart now.
we need the current rating off the SSR’s which I believe are the yellow boxes.
my guess is you’ll need bigger ones. may have to snip the zip ties
It looks good. Just make sure cyclopath approves.
I had the same issues with mine
Just got here on this thread so update me if possible
Also @vortal 1300 watts sounds about right this thing is pretty slow to heat up. It would be easy to swap to a bigger element tho.
is 5A.
you need 15A to keep your current heating elephant happy.
I’d buy a 25A SSR and put it on a decent heat sink.
Would I be able to just buy another SSR and install it in place of this one?
except for the “decent heatsink” part, yeah.
if you removed one of the controllers from the box you might have room.
Alternatively, you could make a new box for the controller that you use…
I can find or make a heat sink, where would I stick it?
I’ll probably just make a new box but use the PID from this box.
Would it be easy to convert to 220v? I guess not convert but build to be 220v rather than 120. Would the PID like that?
now that you’ve removed the zip tie securing the SSR, you should be able to see the rest of the wiring diagram. it’s pretty straight forward. my experience has been that SSR’s can generate significant heat, and that they (and the components around them) live longer if they are appropriately heat sinked. That 5A SSR had no heat sink. I believe you’ll want to add one when you upsize.
I actually don’t know if oversizing the SSR reduces the heat load for any given current, or even prolongs the service life, and would love confirmation or contradiction from one of our members more skilled in these particular arts.
possibly. maybe even “probably”.
show us the newly revealed label on the PID (was under SSR)
second one is way easier to read 
yes. like most PID, this one looks like it will work with a range of input voltages.
I believe this one says 85-285V. AC or DC
paired with an appropriate SSR (20-25A), this will allow you to install a 4500W 240V heating elephant in your salvaged boiler. although you’ll probably want to change how you get power to the element and drop the original rheostat from the circuit.
The rheo is just built into a plate that screws on from the back. I’ll probably mount the PID on that plate.
Thank all yalls for all the help
That’s how probably how I would mod that critter.
I also use two SSRs and switch both legs in 220/240V installs.
