I recently purchased some C-Bleach from ColumboLabs.

I have a question about the third method on the paper. Which is in the boiling flask putting it in the spd mantle. My question is am I suppose to run it as if I were to distill it regularly and it should come out more clear?

Thanks in advance.

There are many topics that talk about this already. You should consider researching it. Most people are getting water clear from adding it to the flask, but be careful, as it will oxidize quickly or cause isomerization to delta-8. I put my money on Summits tech and I will be trying out Achromatizing Clay once my lab opens officially.

1 Like

You can, or you can just use the flask to mix at a 120°C under light vacuum for 15-30minutes, then filter, then distill. Try all the possible combination and see what works best. I personally like to do multiple winterizations with progressively finer filters (I usually do 20um, 8um, 1um) in between each winterization. Then a room temp carbon scrub followed by C-bleach scrub. After first pass distillation I repeat C-bleach scrub.

There is one major issues with boiling flask additives; Delta-8 conversion. Another less serious and more annoying is cleaning the flask after your done.

You should hit up @Shadownaught and grab some degumming enzyme and T5! I got to chat with him on the phone not to long ago, man is he a smart cookie. Those 2 products along with C-bleach will really help you nail in super clear distillate.


I’ve used their clay and for some reason my water clear turns to red almost like co2 color in like a 3 weeks.

I’ve read that it’s something about the ph with the degumming enzyme?

I don’t really know. I didn’t use it for my next run to see how much of a color difference I would get and it’s definitely not water clear but it is a nice golden color.

I need to figure out the best way to not have this happen.

I’ve read a bunch of stuff on this site but it’s kinda hard to put together sometimes cause everyone goes off a tangent lol. I’ll take what I can though.

Maybe I used too much.


I used C bleach after the first pass, no Degum or other clay was involved. I did do saline rinses with ph 4, 8 and 7 with an extra double rinse of fresh distilled water. I got water clear as a result, didnt vacuum out the storage container and it is all red now. it started as pink on top and has been stored in a fridge. I am also going to do the next couple runs without the cbleach to see what happens.


Will the cbleach give the same red oxidation results with a wet suspension scrub?

I just did a run yesterday with the same material. I did my first pass with some achromazing clay from summit. Degummmed then did a brine wash then secondpass.

My results were ok. The oil itself in a jar looks dark still but it’s pretty yellow.

I would like to know how to make that clear yellow oil or does it always look dark once it’s in a big chunk?

I always thought you used the achromazing clay or cbleach on your 2nd pass. I have heard that if you do it on the first pass, more may be needed.

1 Like

The first couple of hours after it was distilled it looked exactly like champagne. After it cooled and bubbles settled it was still almost clear, slight yellow tint. I took 1 gram samples with a syringe and the distillate is water clear. I put 10g into a test tube and it was water clear as well, however that is when i first realized it oxidizes really quickly. The next day there was a red ring on the test tubes on the top and the bulk jar turned pink/red. After two or three days a red ring appeared on top of the bulk container and the majority of it is now pink at this point. Taking pictures with flash makes it look red, but in person it is more pink.
This was my first run of distillate ever.
I used an Alembic for the first pass and Lab Society Head with gl connections for the second pass.
Main body on first pass peaked to 500 micron and 230 micron peak on second pass, i was not able to go below 219 micron with the gl connections.
I have upgraded to full bore 24/40 (no gl connections anymore) and now i can hit 19 micron in a minute.
Doing my first pass with the full bore tomorrow, ill let you know what differences i see.
I was able to fraction off the Azulene and some sort of green fraction on second pass, hoping to be able to cut it tighter with a full bore setup.

1 Like

i believe the key to appeance in bulk is storing your distillate under vacuum or nitrogen gas.


The one time I’ve tried the degumming process with saline washes using already bleached material it came out pink/red as well so I don’t bother with that anymore. I make Δ8 water clear on a regular basis using cbleach in the boiling flask and a modified bump trap to remove the azulene fraction almost entirely. Running a long heads fraction and cutting the mainbody well before it hits tails have given me the best results. In bulk it has a goldish color but when in a cartridge completely water clear. Storing it in a Mason jar at room temp on shelf for 4 weeks hasn’t given me extream oxidation or discoloration but there is a ring that will settle on top after a week or two.


Are you using the bumptrap technique before you runn main body?

I take my heads and tails, bleach it and run it like normal for a “first pass” separating the initial deep blue azulene fraction and get a main body that has blue/green in it and run the tails into it then re load the BF and add the bump trap and run it for “second pass” hard then let it cool back down so I can run it like normal. Running that bump trap keeps your main body fractions in the BF while letting the azulene make way out of the boiling flask vertically

I’ve used the bump trap and I run multiple multiple liters every week, just seems like a lot of work when it easier to separate azulene in the b ginning. But what ever works for you I was just wondering.

I get so much blue that it’s just better to separate it twice for me

1 Like