BHO purging pre winterization

So I’m crafting cartridges from flower. First i process the material into BHO, since I dont have a dewaxing sleeve, I winterize my BHO afterwards. My question is, how purged does the BHO need to be, before dissolving in ethanol, and is it safe to purge my BHO at a higher temp? Is it safe to purge my bho at a 130’ f, I figured the oil will experience these high temperatures when I’m purging the ethanol, why not raise the temps and speed up my butane purge? I always did a low temp purge around 100’ F for 3 days. I’m purging with a chamber, running the vacuum pump intermittently to maintain full vac. Also, for a 10-20g slab, is 48-72 hours @ 130’ f excessive?

I’m trying to refine my process, and reduce the time to finish product. I perform 2 winterizing filtration of varying grades, and currently it takes nearly 10-12 days to make carts. With 2-3 days purging the bho, and 3 more days purging the ethanol after winterizing, and 4 days total in the freezer separating lipids/fats/oil. I know upgrading my equipment would help, a dewaxing sleeve is the ultimate goal, but in the mean time, is there a way i can expedite my process?

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If you intend to dissolve the compound in ethanol there is no need for a vacuum purge. At room temp butane is a gas. Once the gas is no longer entrapped in compound it will escape of its own accord.

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(when winterizing) I use ethanol as the transfer solvent out of my CLS.

recover most of the solvent, pull vacuum on receiver (with recovery pump), use that vacuum to pull measured amount of ethanol into the receiver.

then straight to the freezer…

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Are you decarbing before going into your carts?
Or using diluent of some sort?

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I am reintroducing plant derived terpens. I decarbed a batched, but I felt like it changed the high, maybe I’m just paranoid though. Should i be decarbing?

Decarbing is one way to reduce viscosity.

It darkens the product, and you loose terpenes. But you’re adding extra terpenes right? Dunno.

I was exploring the correct purge temp.

Purge too hot, and you both darken the product and loose terpenes…but you might be decarbing to reduce viscosity or make a more versatile concentrate (eat it, vape it, dab it!).

Ok I have a question and I know this is a old thread but …so I am now going with wax to vape, I have made distillate and was able to put it in cartridges, but I don’t have the right equipment for it all now. After making wax with bho, you should still add ethanol and winterize it? For cartridges? And what is the best cheapest way to evaporate it? I’m thinking a rotovap ? And I don’t get decarbing it. Why would I need to do this, to make it able to work in a vape pen. Sorry for seeming dumb but it’s difficult to get the answers by searching. I’m not a chemist but a do it yourselfer Thank you for any help you can give me.

You don’t want fats in your vape pen so you’re definitely going to want to winterize.

Rotovap is the best, Chinese simple distillation setup is the cheapest.

Decarbing your material makes it bioactive and ready to use. This makes decarbed material work for edibles and tinctures and carts and such. For cartridges, decarbed material is best because it helps the cartridge wick and helps it mix and fill more easily, all due to it’s lower viscosity.

@Michaelsmaker anything else?

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Yes just one more, when is the proper time to decarb? Before extraction ? Thank you.

The most time effective point to decarb in is after you’ve extracted and winterized, while you’re removing ethanol

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Ok. Thank you for the information, you have been a big help and now I know exactly what I need to get it done. I appreciate it greatly.

Dump the oleresin right into tour etho and tour good to go

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