I add 90f etho to mine and mix for a few minutes and it has worked for me
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You got your etoh answer, which sounds like it will work better with your SOP! 
As per the vac oven question: yes no problem, a tvo-5 or two would do the trick depending on how much time you have. Vac ovens need surface area, so account time for pouring from the bucket 
, purging and flipping the slabs.
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I think its worth measuring and monitoring the residual solvent levels throughout the process on a few batch runs since the CA testing limits for residual solvents apply to all products. My concern is less with the (hopefully) low levels of residual butane and more with Isopropyl, Ethanol & Heptane used in post processing.
The limit for Butane, Ethanol, & Heptane is 5000 ppm. Isopropyl is much lower with a 320 ppm limit on inhalable cannabis products.
We have seen distillate samples with failing residual solvent levels and though its possible to remediate it will take time, money, and slow down getting product to market.
A few QA tests early should help prevent regulatory QC issues.
ouch! at 320 ppm it’s quite easy to fail simply by not paying attention when cleaning your gear.
I just got back results on an out-sourced, non-winterized, live resin run that was at 247ppm for Isopropanol. The only place they could have gotten that from is from their cleaning SOP which swabs everything down with Iso before they play.
When Oregon instituted residual solvents, CO2 operators went through the roof. Many (most?) of them were failing at 5000ppm EtOH. They complained so hard that Oregon initially dropped ALL alcohols from the residual solvent list. They quickly came to their senses (sort of) and reinstated the 5000ppm for Iso, MeOH, and Butanol, but have NO limit at all on residual Ethanol.
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I love the like-mindedness in this forum. I was thinking about how to purge out the Butane and thought about dissolving in a small amount of hot anhydrous ethanol then rotovaping down then I casually scroll through Future4200 and it’s already here! Reminds me of the ‘Simpsons did it’ episode of south park.
I have not yet had a chance to try this out, so my main question to those that have is what is the consistency of the oil, is it still shatter like or is it close to an oil at that point after everything is ‘purged’? And have you performed residual analysis for butane, how thoroughly does it remove it?
If you just dissolve in EtOH then evaporate, final consistency should be almost identical to starting material.
In the case of BHO as crude for distillation, the recommended protocol is to bring up in Ethanol at about 10:1 and throw it in the freezer to ppt the fats and waxes. filter or centrifuge those out, then evaporate/recover ethanol.
That WILL change the consistency. Usually towards a slightly more viscous product.
The next step is to decarboxylate. which can be done at the same time you’re recovering the ethanol. after decarb, the oil is usually considerably less viscous.
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Hey so quick question, just starting up my own spd. From what i understand, you can open blast raw material with butane, purge that mix over open heat slowly, then mix with 10:1 etoh and filter with a bucnerr filter, decarb it then put that into my spd ?
No, dont do that.
As long as its not a flame, and u got plenty of ventilation
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Why wouldn’t you recommend blasting in a tube such as the green machine by johnnys green extractions? I only have access to dried and flash frozen material so i need to make crude thats distillable without too many chemicals.
Do it in a closed loop. We don’t try to support “open blasting” around these parts. That’s how you go boom, and blow up your apartment and stuffs… No bueno…
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Whats the minimum $ to get into closed loop? I thought those extraction machines were $$,$$$-$,$$$,$$$
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Same price as wasting all that butane.
Cheaper than getting hurt.
Cheaper than hurting someone else.
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Copy. Thank you guys for the help 
Check out https://qualitystainlessparts.com/. Should be able to get a sweet starter system for under a grand, but spend at least a couple weeks reading how to operate a cls before you order one.
Lots of great info here, all it takes is a search.
Hi im looking through their site and i dont know which one is the right one. They have them starting at $700 all the way to $1300.
Im cheap, but if you wanna do extraction you need to learn so Id suggest learning to build it yourself. Also the cheap systems have cheap valves. They can work but its better to learn to make it yourself IMO Its like cars and bikes, some people show up with some shit they didnt make. Also theres gonna be issues in the process so better to learn before than after. You will need to maintain it too so are you gonna keep going back asking how? If you send me a pm and price limit ill offer you the BEST advice. also your diy skills- if you have none ill suggest options im aware of for prebuilt.
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Not trying to sound like a jerk, but if you don’t’ know which one is right for you, you’re not ready to run one. Read up, learn what all the parts are and what they do. Once you have it figured out, keep reading, but ask questions as well, because there’s still more to know. I dropped the link to give you a goal to work towards, not a quick fix. Folks here will be more than happy to answer questions if you show you can do your homework, too.
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The dewaxing column and recovery tank arent necessary correct? The video demonstrations ive seen dont show any additional solvents besides the butane
If you don’t have a recovery tank, recovering your solvent becomes infinitely more difficult…
Dewax and/or CRC are not a requirement.
What is the relevance of
to either recovery tank or dewax?!?
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