i extract Static shift into rosin.
I have a small 600 kg press.
I tried to use at 71 grad celcius. one 25 micron bag into one 37 micron bag but after 30 sek heating and about 2 minutes pressing nothing comes out so i decided to go up to 81 grad celsius.
I got some Rosin out there but not that much.
So i made another run on 91 grad celsiuns. more rosin came out but it looked a bit darker then the other one.
So i decided to give it a third shot at 110 grad celsius.
This time the extrakt that went out start bubbling and still bubbling and it smells and taste not so good.
Any solutions about this?
And i also made some Live Resin with fresh frozen it was a bit like yellow and cloudy.
i tried to seperate the thca from the terpenes by a fuge but nothing seperatet.
I there a step i missing to cristalize the thca befor?
It might. Some can help?
And now to the topic theme both extract became dark after decarbing and dont look well at all in the cartridges.
Is there a way to clear it?
I can believe one day a saw a video with a jar cleared after heatet several weeks and the extract become more like honey.
Please help me i have a taff time searching stuff because english is not my main language and i dont know the words for stuff i search right.
So please be not so rude if i maybe double postet something!
Thank you!
A few questions about your processing - your temp points seem correct (personally I am fond of 190f/87.7c as a start point) and you seem absolutely like youâve done your homework and know how to work things so I do have to say kudos to you for that! 110c/230f seems a bit too hot for rosin though - at least for my usual tastes.
But what are your usual pressures youâre working with? I would say with dry sift I tend to top out around 2000/3000psi which is much stronger than you would with fresh frozen. Also are you slowly easing into it or are you going straight to your max PSI? I usually will be hitting the upper end of the PSI range I work with toward the very very end of the 2 minutes or so Iâd be pressing. Too much pressure straight off will force a lot of particulate through and open yourself up for blowouts. Speaking of which, I usually double bag with 2 of the same type vs. two different micron sizes, usually 25 micron.
Now outside of technique a lot of this has to do with starting material, all dry sift really isnât made equally and thatâs why I personally avoid it unless working with food grade in mind usually BUT thatâs not to say you canât get really really good results otherwise, itâs just a lot more finicky than fresh frozen because with fresh frozen you usually know what temperature the material has been stored with and itâs general journey from âblock of weed-iceâ to âjar of hashâ in regard to the conditions itâs been in.
Now far be it from me to give you a finite answer because I am more of a solventless guy (hash/rosin) rather than solvent based but it would seem to me if both are from the same plant/batch/grow and youâre getting darker colors it might be from how it was handled from harvest to extraction.
Now the honey-jar seems like it would likely be in relation to the decarb process which does in fact bring imperfections to the forefront BUT is the only way thus far to really get a solid rosin cart but I feel as though thatâs another reason for using fresh frozen because to get the desired viscosity youâre looking for to make your cart operational youâre going to need to loosen it up which is what the 160f for a few days decarb is usually doing.
I do have to say, donât get discouraged. It all happens to us at first. Hereâs some pictures of what mine used to look like. Keep a good attitude, read as much as you can and continue to ask good questions with supporting info like you have and I can see good things coming out of your efforts regardless of what your native tongue is. Effort and attitude are paramount and it seems like you have good practices in both.
That was one of my first attempts at rosin jam. The banger essentially turned black whenever you tried to hit either of those and there was no positive taste to speak of. Both were made out of bubble hash.
The first major issue is you are trying to make carts with rosin. And if it is changing rapidly like that, it means you have alot of impurities present that are degreasing and even in some cases still decomposing. If the plant has been sprayed those compounds most definitely will come out and they cause âcuringâ issues.
Rosin carts are a thing. Use the right carts with the right size aperture holes and filled properly they will rip heads off. The CCell ceramics treated me good but now it seems like most companies have carts that will work with rosin. Even Ikrusherâs carts have been good to me, disposables and 510s both. I usually donât push it past a .5g cart though because the viscosity is a lot more tough on them vs hot dog water
Yea true but if the rosin is super dirty the cart quality wonât matter. It will still become degraded I suppose. The contents if not really clean and pure always degrade in carts.
you would say maximum 2 minutes of pressing?
sometime i pretend to press like 4 minutes maybe thats why it taste not that great?
Usualy i start with really low till noone pressure for the first 30 seconds and the i will increase it slowly.
My starting Material is the best i can get here though.
Maybe it is not even organic product.
So you say you wont go for BHO if you have fresh frozen?
Could i make it with the press?
How long to cure the buds bevor? or just straight after Harvesting?
Resin and Rosin two different flowers and breeder.
I use the CCELL TH2-SE Because there are no Keramic cartridges up in my Country.
Maybe some of you can sell me some good ones?
So if it dont taste that good, should i add some terps to my rosin?
Like 10% or something?
Or should i just make destillate out of it and then come back to the cartridges?
thank you for your fast answer i really apreciatte it!
try doing a 72u then a 37u bag and press at 190 and try not to let the oil sit on the plates for any longer than absolutely necessary⌠I also recommend doing a prepress the day before to help get the juices flowing.
This. always keep your material as fresh and cold as possible at all times to help prevent oxidization. this doesnt look like dry sift though, this looks like cured hash.
Also Cyclopath knows all of this. He also wasnât the OP but what he knows about hash could fill a book and then some.
Personally I would say 200f would be my top-top ceiling for that, I usually only reserve that high heat for totally juicing out bags with the purpose of making rosin jam otherwise youâre risking losing terps big time.
Not exactly what iâd use but for small amounts that should be a-ok as long as you donât bring the hammer down hard on it. I am particular about Low Temp Platesâ presses - great guys who stand behind their hardware. I do recommend when you pre-press that the plates are firmly down on the bag with almost no pressure. Just think of enough pressure that you would be able to squish a balloon but not pop it for your warmup.
Absolutely - maybe 2:30 at the very most.
Not exactly, itâs just not my area of expertise. I know fresh frozen will make really good BHO but that is also dependent on the equipment youâre working with.
Absolutely! You will have to wash it (aka bubble hash) firstly then dry the product via air drying or a ride in a freeze dryer to remove the moisture. There are lots of youtube videos detailing this process if youâre not very familiar with it. I strongly recommend Frenchy Cannoliâs videos for a good baseline on what to expect.
Fresh frozen doesnât really require any curing but for dried material youâll want to dry it like you would normal flower.
I would recommend getting carts from the manufacturers/licensed distributors just for safetyâs sake.
Probably not a great idea, most BDT terps donât play too nice with rosin as you will get sort of a âtastes like burningâ type thing going on.
Nice chunk of hash!! Fucking sweet!! The way I see pressing this type of material is if itâs âfull meltâ it will play nice with a rosin press. Something like this.
You can see thereâs not much particulate in there which is the big advantage of using bubble hash since you are running it through various stages of filtration to keep out the extras you donât want in there.
I recommend doubling up on the 25 micron rosin bags (I go as low as possible, usually using 2 25 micron bags, myself.) you have rather than a big one and a small one since youâre literally just letting the particulate you DONâT want going through the big bag and then the burden will be on the smaller micron bag vs. both splitting duties on filtration. Though it will cut down on yield it seems as though youâre looking for quality vs. quantity.
Disty is usually the power play when it comes to working with lower quality material for sure
My honest advice at this stage of the game is to worry less about the color of the material you make and worry more about the amount of particulate in the output material you make as most rosin will have almost no particulate in it. Once you start nailing it like that you are made in the shade my friend - the rest will come easily
That is a question for someone who is far more versed in disty/cart production as I am generally cultivation/solventless. I know enough to get by with disty and the like but not enough that iâd feel comfortable giving advice to be honest
If youâre just using distillate and some sort of refined terpenes (HDT, CDT, etc) youâre probably going to be in the 5-10% range depending on hardware.
I always shoot for the least amount of terps possible and usually land around 5% CDTs. Always a good idea to do some test batches with really precise scales just to make sure your viscosity and hardware match up
