I’ve heard people having trouble getting rid of the green when scrubbing with carbon. I just run my green etho through a buchner with celite under carbon. Works great, there is a picture in the etho color remediation thread. If it starts leaking green just rerun it again.
Water usually gets eid of the sugars and chlorophyll in the roto flask. In my experience
Try mixing Activated charcoalinto the mixamd filter that mixture over t-41 or celite-545
Carbon does pretty good to remove green pigment
So you put distilled water in with the crude after you’ve removed all the etho?
I decarb in the roto so i get so if tberes alot of chlorophyll it will “burn” to the sides and water is the only thing that takes it off. I do sometimes add wayer around 75c and it will help carry water solubles out as it ramps to decarb temp
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I rarely see burnt stuff in the roto, I’ve seen it in the spd where you can see small specks of burnt sugars and chlorophyll that makes its way into the rf, which is annoying. But if you do hot condenser it falls to the bottom and you can pour the product out before or makes it out with it. Im using more bento to try and avoid it. I’ve started pre-decarbing in the roto up to 99.9c, then into a pot and hotplate. I might put a bit odd water in during that phase to pull out the last traces of it happens again. Thanks for the advice.
I fully decarb upto 140c under high vac it really helps to pull volitales and as many terps as possible it saves me time in the spd. Try the wayer out it works pretty good
I most definitely will, i broke a swing arm and adapter today, so i had to use my other adapter without swing arm and more red than i thought got stuck on the walls and made its way into the rf. I got lucky with the pour though, so i got most of it to stick to the rf and not go into the jar. But if i can remove that from happening without having to ph wash I’ll be a very happy camper.
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