Trouble with new 10l short path.

Yes
If there is really no option there is heat resistant silicone 300C that you can use but
Don t forget it is a gleu do all joints must be swiveled every 6 hours if not it will get gleud stuck wich can only be released with a heat gun till 380C it can be released
It s used in the automotive industry and in the
Heating and refrigeration industry
And only the hot joints it should be used
I Do NOT recommend it thou

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I’ve use usalabs elcheapo vac grease with zero issues.

We use dow at work.

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@tweedledew do you actually add heat to your conderser?

If your head probe is at 160C what would “ambient” be in that general vicinity?

If you had no other heat losses (which unfortunately is not true), then that ambient to -10 chiller, set at 90C might actually get the job done.

Being able to set it to 0C doesn’t seem particularly useful, but actually having refrigeration might be.

The old standby is a bucket heater and an aquarium pump. The pump will melt if you don’t regulate the temp below 80C or so, but it will get the job done for less than $100 in parts.

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Do you have anything in the boiling flask at this point?

How has it been decarbed? Are you certain there is no solvent left in it?

You expect vacuum to drop when something starts boiling…

Boiling at 40C suggests residual solvent.

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I don’t add heat. I generally just run it open to atmosphere with oil/glycol and there’s enough heat lost through the air at the relatively low takeoff speeds on my 5L.

I did hook up a chiller to it that maxes out at 95c. I noticed more stink to the end product. So likely just gonna go back to just leaving the condenser head open to atmosphere but filled with fluid

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meaning you’re almost certainly running your condenser above 95C?

ever checked to see where it stabilizes?
had to put a fan on it?

it certainly looked to be doing the job just fine when I saw it last.

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Yah I switched to a full bore system finally. So I was a bit worried the faster flow was gonna give me issues.
I ended up putting in some interference in the column, so my takeoff rate isn’t that much more impressive. So I’ll likely just switch back to non circulating.

I think I got a reading around 120c when I tested it once. Probably worth figuring that out.

Throwing a fan on it seems pretty practical.

did you make it common knowledge how that was achieved?

as in you had a local glass blower amputate the GL-14’s and replace them with 24/40’s

Krytox seems alright