What ive learned from my style of growing and experience, is that watering till run off is helping you ensure the plant has 100% fresh ph’d nutrient rich water, while also leaching some salt out.
Also not watering till run off, at least every other watering can lead to dry spots when not watering correcly.
One time i was 100% convinced I was watering good, and it couldnt have been the problem.
Until I pulled it out of its pot, and litterally a dry spot of 10-15% where roots didnt even develop😂
Dry spots can also cause salt build ups unknowingly.
I at least do a 10% run off every other watering, if not every watering, mark my calender : 100% water.
Then I keep track of the plants consumption.
I try too hit a sweet spot (for me) of one 100%watering then 3 days of drying before I water again.
I think its broad mites. Hemp russets are easy to spot but on a flowered plant broads are basically impossible to see. You need to look at the tippy top of the tops with a scope and all you see is what looks like trich heads jumping around. If you see anything. Which I rarely do lol. Anyway they hate sulfer ( too late i know) and I’ve found predator mites ( fallacis I think) to be very effective.
Yeah for broads, were taught in horticultural IPM to not even bother looking for them but instead scope for the eggs, they’re very distinct looking. They move real FAST for such a little thing lol
If uou havent actually checked, I would. Bulb mites are absolute impervious to chemical treatments- any we would be willing to use anyway The only way we could eradicate them was temps abive 140F.
Definitely switch to hydroton instead of rockwool.
The only way we could eradicate them was temps abive 140F.