So only the version with auto lift has the power off feature to stop it from burning dry?
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Yeah but is it supposed to blow the fuse of any room it uses after overheating. Even with water in it? Cause that’s what mine was doing.
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I’ve yet to see this
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have you every seen The China Syndrome?
Resistive heating elements that get so hot they blow the breaker is generally referred to as “thermal cascade”. If the breaker doesn’t trip (which happens way more often than you’d think), you turn the rotovap bath into a casting crucible
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Ours come with it standard on a diff valve but most people just add a longer ptfe tube and then suck it out into a jug or glass or whatever.
Still again… yet to see this. How are they sucking it out? Peristaltic? Gear pump? Vacuum?
Post a video of something
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So to dumb it down I got a water bath that was pretty much a fire hazzard [if my breakers didn’t kick in]. The water bath was sold with my rotovap by a company that flat out refused to repair it or send me a new one. That company was Lanphan.
… Again I threw it out cause it was a fire hazzard. The fact that I did business with lanphan after that kinda makes me personally sad.
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Just vacuum. You can take a keg or a flask and just pull vac on it and it will suck everything in the ball out except a silver dollars worth.
You should post a video of this. I can understand the process fairly simply - like vacuum filtration, but I who would put crude in a keg?
My thoughts - with my 50L - was to break vac once I’ve hit 25ish litres of decarbed/devolitized crude and pull the feed tube out and replace it with a longer hose and a peristaltic into a standard 5gal pail
I mean, I would have put a good thermostat in versus throwing the thing away but… Yeah. FYI, this isn’t necessarily just a lanphan problem. You’d be amazed the failures in risk assessment even “good german companies” and certainly US-made integrators make.
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You can do it with just a regular bubble trap adapter like this one in a flask with the right joint size (just ditch the outer skinny tube for a 10l RBF). If you’re a cool guy, you could even suck it right onto the reactor.
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Oo, I like the idea of sucking it directly into the reactor. Vacuum, fun for the whole family.
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I suspect you could even put a three way stopcock in the feed tube doing to your drum and switch it to suck the oil out to wherever you want it. The upside is any oil stuck in the tube will just get redissolved when you suck more micelle into the roto.
Those vacuum trap dip tube things are gold, always great to keep one on hand
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You can have the same tube there for feed or auction. You don’t need to remove and replace anything. I would assume pulling into a booking flask is the easiest use for this tek.
A little advice, for you and for everyone here：A -30C chiller is enough, no -80C one which is a waste.
I found a misunderstanding, people think that the chiller with lower temperature is better for rotary evaporator, that is wrong. The cooling capacity between -30C and 0C is the key, Just like a manual transmission car, it’s the most powerful in first gear, get a chiller which has big enough cooling capacity at -20C is Good enough!
The chillers used for storage tanks and for rotary evaporator are different and require different adjustments.
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I’d still like to see intake and removal through the same tube going to the bottom of the evaporation flask. Something about this doesn’t seem like it’s gonna work all that well. Crude isn’t gonna be very kind to the glass down tube running through the bump trap as it pushes the plastic tube attached to the glass tube around in the evaporation flask.
You take the tube and cut a slit at the end so it can “straw” it’s way. This works really well. Every roto cap we sell has this feature installed. It works great bc the ball never cools down. It’s always hot in the water bath.
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That’s what I would do.
I still never tried my stainless inlet idea
Double oblique
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