FOUND THE PICTURE!
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Oyster Shells in the boiling flask asap 
[quote=“square_root_pharms, post:50, topic:12694”]
How
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Any a y’all here tried corn grits as a filter for reproofing?
You are essentially packing your column with grits and ensuring a overpressure valve is present in the system when they swell to the point of blowing it out you swap the filter/column and ride on- much easier to regenerate than mol sieves and a hell of a lot cheaper.
It looks like you can do this with a jacketed spool fairly simply
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_grits.html
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awesome find!
190proof is a better solvent than 200proof for our purposes (picks up fewer fats/waxes).
https://future4200.com/uploads/default/original/2X/4/400e761ed2e3ddd927d284757e162accc3aa8f5f.jpg
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Still tho- you can fly through 170 in a stripping run a lot faster than 190 and then dilute back down to safe proof and run it through the filter- is rather pour 5% h2o in to my 200 proof EtOH than sit and watch it Slowly pool out of a column any day of the week.
This seems incredibly simple to attach to a keg boiler just using some triclamp spoils from BvV
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if you’re making your liquor, eg from 12% wash, then it’s a definite win.
if you’re playing by the rules, and buying 190, you’ll generally find that your stripped solvent is at 190 without further work. unless something went wrong (eg you were trying to run fresh frozen, and it thawed mid run).
I do find that the tails (which I pull off in the rotovap) are lower proof. I use those for cleaning. everything that comes off in my simple stripping still has tested at 185-190proof.
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Some of us play by the rules and get the proper permits 
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good for you!
most cannabis extractors I’ve talked to are unwilling to talk to ATF about the required permits.
most won’t even ask for their taxes back on the beverage grade liquor they’re using.
https://www.ttb.gov/applications/manufacturer_nonbeverage_products_packet.shtml
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You pour the eth through the beads or pack the column in your still while distilling ? I don’t know
if I phrased that correctly. Trying to figure out how to re proof the best fastest way .
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What did you pack your column with? What type of wash or starting material are you working with
Packing is copper mesh- would like to get some SPP- wash is cane sugar, raisins, tomato paste, and spent coffee grounds with DADY and nutrients.
Farmer just told me he can give me a few hundred pounds of hemp stalks for free and I’d like to see if I can use shadownaughts enzyme to ferment them into ethanol- would love to be extracting with the spirit of the hemp in accordance with spagyric principals.
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That’s so funny my dad grew oysters for ever and I always wondered what to do with the shells , with I would have save the millions of shells
I’m looking to get the chlorophyll out of my ethanol. Had a puking incident while recovering and now there is a green tinge to all of my ethanol. Would a traditional pot still work for this purpose? Amazon.com
I was thinking of using this to get rid of the chlorophyll, and then a mole sieve setup to reproof. But from reading, it seems most are running reflux columns instead of mole sieves to reproof. Is it better/more efficient to run a column? Only reproofing/filtering a few gallons of ethanol. Does anyone recommend any specific stills that have it all together, or perhaps a still that you can run with a vacuum pump to lower recovery temps? I mistakenly bought a source turbo and its contaminated all of my ethanol and is losing me at least 1/3 of my solvent each time I recover. Would like to upgrade! Thanks to anyone who can help!
Also, will this still yield 180 proof alcohol or something a lot lower? I’m starting with 150-170 proof everclear. It started at 190 proof but I’ve used it for a few runs.
are you still producing your own ethanol? just curious. we’re looking into doing this project with your recipe. the $2.70/liter price would be the equivalent of $2700 per tote (1000L) of produced ethanol. if we can buy totes of ethanol for $1700 delivered, then it wouldn’t make sense.
was ethanol way more expensive a few years ago? i don’t see how it would make sense financially.
or are you saying you can produce it for $270 material cost for 1000L of finished product? ($270 producing your own vs $1700 buying it)
Making your own definitely makes sense if you can’t access excise exemptions. If you don’t have to pay beverage tax, it’s unlikely that you can produce for much less than you can buy it at the tote scale.
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Is that price for beverage grade?
Organic?
Denatured?
it’s CDA-12.
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Beverage grade is running closer to $6/liter
In some niches that can be passed on to the consumer.
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