Recovering lots of B/PHO oil extract from jars/containers

you might need heat if it’s a lot, the residue from a jar will dissolve into high proof ethanol pretty readily at room temp

you shouldn’t have any conversions if you didn’t use acidic media/acid at some point and don’t get any major vacuum leaks/crazy temps

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Awesome, that’s exactly what I was thinking to. YOU wouldn’t happen to know to pros and cons of acetone vs. ethanol for this, would you? ;p Thanks mte

Pretty sure ethanol can degrade the product the longer it is in it due to the -OH bond. Have heard tell of potency losses from resting in ethanol for long periods. Chemically both solvents can form byproducts under acidic and basic conditions.


For acetone:
Under acidic conditions, aldol condensations, hydration, and halogenation are possible.

Under basic conditions, aldol condensations, enolate formation, ketonization, and Michael additions are possible


For ethanol:
Under acidic conditions, esterfication, dehydration, and oxidation.

Under basic conditions, dehydrohalogenation, oxidation, and saponification.

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Dang that’s some wisdom right there.
So excuse these newbie questions bud, deff not on your level yet…
But what would cause one condition or another? I’d probably have to make the condition either acidic or basic by my own addition of substance? Or do I need to worry about my solvents becoming to acidic or basic once they adsorb the product? Or from source? You have max storage times in these solvents before worry of negative effects? I probably wouldn’t store it more then a day or two or prob even same day before going into re-distillation/solvent recovery…

Ethanol is a weakly acidic compound, possessing a hydroxyl group (OH). In theory, it can act as an acid and donate a proton (H+) to a base, or as we have seen with cannabinoids, acidic conditions can lead to oxidation (red color on top of disty jars).

CRC can create such conditions depending on the media used. Technically speaking, acidic conditions also help with acidic molecule crystalization but can lead to faster degradation.

If you were to tritrate neutral cannabinoids in ethanol with acid, it will make it all red. If you retritrate with base to neutral it will return to the typical golden - tan from red. But too basic and it can start becoming red/purple again.

Basic environment with acidic cannabinoids and you will convert the acids to water soluble salts, which are the conjugate base of the acidic molecule.

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I suggest you start by looking up the MSDS for both…

We use ethanol.
We pump it fast enough through that spray head that it gets warm. Gets the majority of the cannabinoids in just a few min.

No way in hell I’d play this trick with acetone…

…and we don’t make “dish-dillate” from it because those containers were all marked with sharpies, and we don’t need extract of pen in our pens.

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hahaha “dishdillate” has me dyyying bro lol

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Just trying to put “hot dog water” in perspective :shushing_face:

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I think it’s time to change drop the sharpie from the SOP…

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We have discussed that.

Especially now that OR has given us processing jobs (which can be used as “accumulators”).

Haven’t solved the labeling issue. I want barcodes etched on everything, but that won’t fly.

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We still use sharpies, but I complain and want the writing on painters tape that is easier to remove. I have spent way to many hours removing writing and sticker residue before soaking dishes in ethanol. I better get to work, today I make hot dog water aka dishtillate.

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I’ll probably just be doing some beamtests tbh =p Tho I do love a nicely CRCed product.

Very interesting. Wouldn’t that be a good thing, short term? What does acetone do?
Do you recommend me doing PH tests on the solvent after extraction to make sure it stays within a certain range? Or if I distill quick enough would it prob be a pretty much non factor?

Ok not to be a kiss ass but you are clearly like god chemist level over here. lol. Thank you for the input. I am not gonna lie tho I’m having a lil bit of trouble fully understanding that? Do I want a basic or acidic environment? Do i want only acidic cannabinoids? Do i want to convert to salts? Conjugate base of the acidic molecule… Hence, a conjugate base is a substance formed by the removal of a proton from an acid, as it can gain a hydrogen ion in the reverse reaction. Because some acids can give multiple protons, the conjugate base of an acid may itself be acidic.? I’m sorry I really appreciate your patience and explanations. Rock on mate

An sorry in advance everyone forum is throttling me and making it really hard to stay engaged/keep my place or train of thought…

Is is ONLY because of what ya’ll use to mark stuff or other reasons to? Thanks for the info bud.
Also fk metrc and the gov. Sorry you have to deal with all that. I got tired of running a lab for a slave wage of 25/hr. Hope your’re making out better in this industry then most my poor fellow workers I talk to. This industry needs a strong union.
Keep up the good work

Have your read the msds’s?!?

Stuck your snoz in a bottle of acetone?

You can drink ethanol…try that with acetone and report back.

Edit: please don’t, it would most likely kill you…

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The simple answer is use ethanol, aka ever clear at the liquor store. Or order up 190/200 proof from your favorite lab supplier.

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Lol no I have work today and am just getting going this morning. Haven’t read anything yet… But… Yeah That checks out. Lol. This acetone tastes funney? How much was I supposed to drink after huffing? I think i’m feeling a stronger buzz then with the ethanol
?? lol
Your’re funny bruh rock on. Thank you to I think I will default to ethanol as that’s what I’m most familiar with to.(aside from iso, that’s what we used to use but it wasa beetch)

Yes my friend I think ethanol is going to be the choice route here, thanks for the recommend =)
What about anhydrous ethanol(I’m planning on making some anyway) vs regular high proof?

Do you have any flavor recommendations for this acetone? XP Dishtillate. I’m dying. ty for the laughs this morning

Anyone who doesn’t do the due diligence of looking at the material safety data sheets for every solvent they are intending to use is a fucking moron.

That should have been your FIRST move.

Could have spent ten min reading elsewhere…

What happens when you dip your hand in ethanol?

How about Acetone?

You haven’t looked that up? Why the fuck not?!?

Steve says they’re about the same as far as toxicity goes, but points out there are material compatibility issues with acetone…

Ethanol and acetone are both common chemical solvents, but they have different chemical compatibilities and reactivity with various substances. Here’s an overview of their chemical compatibility:

  1. Water Compatibility:
  • Ethanol is miscible with water, meaning it can mix with water in all proportions. This property makes ethanol useful for making aqueous solutions and tinctures.
  • Acetone is also miscible with water. It readily dissolves in water, making it a useful solvent for a wide range of applications.
  1. Plastic Compatibility:
  • Ethanol is relatively safe for use with many plastics, including polyethylene, polypropylene, and PET bottles. It is less likely to cause stress cracking or degradation in these materials.
  • Acetone, on the other hand, can be more aggressive with certain plastics, including polystyrene and some types of acrylic. Prolonged exposure to acetone can lead to plastic degradation and cracking.
  1. Metal Compatibility:
  • Both ethanol and acetone are generally compatible with many metals, including stainless steel, aluminum, and copper. They do not typically corrode or react with these metals.
  1. Rubber Compatibility:
  • Ethanol is generally safe with natural rubber and many synthetic rubber materials. It is often used for cleaning purposes and can be stored in rubber containers.
  • Acetone, however, can deteriorate and swell some rubber materials over time, so it’s less suitable for long-term storage in rubber containers.
  1. Organic Compound Solubility:
  • Ethanol is an excellent solvent for a wide range of organic compounds, making it suitable for use in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and chemical industries.
  • Acetone is also a versatile solvent for organic compounds and is commonly used in laboratories and industrial processes.

In summary, while both ethanol and acetone have their specific uses as solvents, ethanol is often preferred when water compatibility is required, or when dealing with plastics and rubber materials. Acetone is a powerful solvent for various organic compounds but should be used with caution when in contact with certain plastics and rubber. Always consider the specific application and material compatibility when choosing between these solvents.

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Whoooa easy bud I totally agree. I guess since I’ve narrowed my list it is time to go to MDS. Tho I already have the general ideas I was just trying to figure the best one for my desire. Which is not in MDS ;p Appreciate you looking out tho mate XD (I’m probably going ethanol route) TY <3

Not just you reading this…the sentiment applies to ANYBODY not reading the msds for their solvent of choice….

“Nah I haven’t bothered reading those yet, which one should I use?” Is the wrong approach.

“I’ve read them and still have questions” is appropriate.

Imo the reason there are more ethanol fatalities than acetone fatalities is because acetone is just so unpleasant to deal with.

LD50’s are similar (acetone is a smidge lower), but the effort involved in actually consuming those doses is different.

Both are markers for ripe/rotten fruit, so at some level we sought both out in the past…(so we should be able to handle low levels relatively well)

Things to compare:

Toxicity, flammability, flash point, vapor pressure at rm (or process) temps, chemical compatibility, suitability for the task at hand.

Toxicity evaluation should also consider routes of administration, and environmental concerns for spills and disposal.

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