Opinion on first monotub

Also how would I go about putting it to grain once it’s ready? The only way I’ve ever innoculated a bag is through the self healing injection port with liquid culture…would liquid culture be easier or better to make or is it better to clone?

Do you have a flowhood? Agar might not be worth the time without one. And as far as a sop I don’t have one to recommend specifically, you would take the mushroom you want to be clones and put it in a ziploc bag then bring it infront if your flowhood. Split it open with your hands and take a tissue sample from the inside with a sterile scalpel

Grab this book
https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Mushroom-Growers-Simple-Cultivation

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I don’t have a flowhood unfortunately but that will be next on my list when Im able to build a room out for this. Right now I’m just tryna get the teks down and gain every bit of knowledge that I can. I was reading a tek that described cloning to agar using hydrogen peroxide and they didn’t use a flowhood or anything … Would a liquid culture create just as healthy strong offspring? Is a liquid culture a clone if it’s not taken from a multispore sample? I just read a liquid culture guide and it seemed to be the best way for me to make this happen

I’m guessing putting to agar as opposed to creating a liquid culture would just give me more fine tuning of the characteristics I want? Like you said using the more aggressive growth to do the second transfer to give me the indication of a quick growth trait?

You can do agar work on the door of your oven.

Oven Tek - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

Both pouring plates & doing transfers.

Been a long time since I played that trick, but I had zero contamination out of 1/2liter (~20 plates) the last time I showed someone how it was done.

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Thank you @cyclopath I didn’t know about that tek before you mentioned it so much appreciated !

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So quick question everyone even tho I think I know the answer…looking like one of my newer bins has some contamination. What’s it look like to you?? Early stage trichoderma ?


And is there anything I can do or should I just throw it away?

youll know for sure if its trich in about 24 hours

and nope toss it outside there is no saving a bin with trich

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Okay I’ll keep a look out. I’m also curious on proper harvesting technique to keep contamination at bay for a second flush. It seems my bins aren’t recovering good and looks like one of them got contamination after the first flush I just had about 6 or 7 days ago. I think I left too many stumps (didn’t cut down far enough to substrate) and possibly too many smaller pins/aborts.







Just twist and pull them, then cut or brush the end to get the coco and verm off.
Some varieties hold onto the substrate more than others but it’s faster and doesn’t leave stumps to revert back to mycelium and in bad cases rot

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If ya dial in your tubs they’re set and forget.
Direct to fruiting conditions from when ya spawn the grain to substrate and no fanning till ya rehydrate for the next flush, it’s really convenient.

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So I confirmed one of the monos is definitely trash now one of the ones I was waiting for a second flush on :pensive: seems like the first 2 bins I knocked up from a new bag are too. I’ve already had a couple bouts of trich when I innoculated my first 4 bags…manufacturer also sent me a contaminated one. Good thing I had another bag I used to knock up two other bins that are doing really well so far only a couple days since innoculation. I realized it seems to make more sense to do a really thin layer of substrate on top of the last layer of spawn I lay down. Ive been doing a pretty thin layer but just recently I realized the colonization time speeds way up with a layer just thin enough to cover things up.

Definitely trich, u can see the green. almost anytime u get that fuzzy looking growth that appears overnight, its trich.
Silly Mycelium is relatively slow compared to trich and trich contam will extend a good half in or in above the substrate when its really bad.

For harvesting procedure, id twist and pull the mushies out then after u have a blank block, spray down with 50-75ppm of hocl water. Let that sit for about 8 hours, then inject some sterilized water into ur blocks. If ur doing 5-7.5lb fruiting bagst/tubs, then 100cc of water is a good start for rehydration.
For a quick formula that isnt accurate but gives u a good baseline to start. Take the weight of ur fresh fruit harvest (example 1300g) and add in 25% of its weight back in water. So a 1300g harvest out of a bin would get roughly 325g of water to rehydrate it. Start with 25% and try out 15% or 35% see where ur culture likes it.
This formula is based off using a CVG mix with more verm than most people use, so the hydration numbers are dependent on ur sub recipe and initial water levels before innoculation.

1300g wet harvest means u lost roughly 130g of dry mass and 1170g of wet mass.
You dont want to hydrate ur block back to what it was to start because theres some missing dry mass and the mycelium has already used up most the water it needs to duplicate, now it just needs a sip to keep fruiting.

I personally like doing the hydration in 2 steps, ill do 60% of it first day the bin is harvested then another 40% of it the second day. That gives time for the block to suck up the first portion and kinda “wake” it back up. Then the second portion of water is added to let them know they will have plenty of water to do another flush.

Ive gotten 14 oz dry yield (across 4 flushes) from a bag using this hydration technique that usually only yields 7oz (across 2 flushes)

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@Thetetraguy Where would I find this hocl ? Tried looking into it and couldnt Find any for sale anywhere. Ive heard a few people tell me to twist and pull but that seemed to be pretty harsh to the substrate surface, Like it has the potential to rip a lot of the substrate up? Obviously that would be better than contamination though lol. I’m currently watching a couple tubs trying to determine if it’s definitely contamination or not. A bit confusing considering I really thought it was trich and things haven’t really done a whole lot of mutating in the past couple of days. I guess I’m just gonna keep them around until I know 100 percent . Anyone have anymore insight with closer looks at pictures? ( First couple pics seems to be healthy mycelium next to the area in question.) Last pic is healthy mycelium circled in green and questionable area in red.




You can get a hocl generator or just make one.
If ur going to buy one, eco one is the go to starting model.
If u want to make one urself, just get a cathode and anode setup in a bucket of water and apply about 12v of eletricity at 5-10 amps.
You run it by adding 2g of salt and 5ml of vinegar for every liter of water.

Id much rather have some sub missing then leave stumps that will get in the way of new growth or spoil on the surface. Most strains can be just flicked off they come off so easy, so i guess ive been working with strains that dont hold onto the soil so much

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