Call me if you have any issues, that bypas and those pipes look A-OK for the application you are using it for.
Not trying to throw shade guys, but I wouldn’t listen to @Dred_pirate or @TheGratefulPhil on their suggestions.
A ball valve for tour bypass will work and will NOT void your warranty.
You just need to watch your pressure gauge in your MTA to ensure you do not exceed 45psi or so.
You really shouldn’t need too much pressure in your system, at all.
You are only rejecting 20 or so KW.
Your MTA has over 34KW cooling capacity.
You only need consistent heat rejection, not massive capacity.
MTA pumps have no issue with running on under sized lines. Their process pump motors are very reliable, and usually far overrated for their applications.
You would need to reduce your line diameter to meet the Huber diameter either way.
Running a main 1" line would be a good idea, but he is reducing down to the Huber inlet size regardless, causing flow restriction and back pressure.
And while MTA pumps are indeed robust the installation manual specifically calls out the need for a back pressure valve. All he’s got is a manual bypass which you could technically throttle once the flow reaches steady state but with the massive temperature fluctuations in OK (I.e. 72 this morning now in the high 90s) it’s not ideal.
Lol those are not massive temp fluctuations, especially for fluid systems.
35°f to 100°f would be massive.
Even then properly diluted glycol solutions wouldn’t have any issues overcompensating the expansion/contraction. Nor would the viscosity cause any damper on the process pump for the MTA.
MTA’s are workhorses. I’ve rarely ever had one have an issue.
Overengineering is cool. But financially unnecessary for alot of applications.
I don’t think that upgrading a manual bypass to a back pressure regulator and upsizing your PEX to the right size is overengineering—it’s just engineering.
Also—not a costly endeavor at all. A few hundred bucks tops.
My PE would also ream me if I just said “good enough, let’s just ignore what the manufacturer recommends”.
I also still wholeheartedly believe it would lead to premature equipment failure. Just one engineers opinion.
Edit: also you didn’t mean to throw shade but you so did—does it help that I’ve also designed piping for, and installed dozens of MTAs and Hubers in my tenure as an engineer? Or did my adherence to manufacturer recommendations (aka overengineering) disqualify me from providing engineering guidance to people.
Won’t lead to early failure, I’ve installed these like this numerous times, first one was in 2018, and that ones still running perfectly fine to this day.
MTA has overlooked numerous of my installed before, and I’ve had both Huber and MTA offer employment to me as a service tech
Over engineering is what engineers do best.
Engineers are almost NEVER good businessmen, lol, frugal is not in most engineers vocabulary.
No where in warranty underwriting does sit state the diameter of pipe must be a certain # lmfao.
Will work but is not ideal, a ball valve should never be used in a partially opened state, a needle valve is the correct choice and actually allows for fine tuning. what engineer would ever suggest a ball valve for a line that requires throttling?
It would be a lot wiser to insulate the supply AND the return.
Throttling a 1" line to 3/4"" is a lot different than reducing 1" to 1/2" I truly cant believe you would suggest leaving it like that. But since you have done it before it must be the right choice right?
The chiller (behind the ice. Next time I defrost for cleaning I’m going to put removable insulation over it, shoosh.) is the M30x1.5, going down to a ¾" hose.
I believe it was 3/4" but MTA does recommend 1.5", I am planning on having them replace it with 1.5" but it goes into 5/8ths(?) I think when it connects to the Unistat. That was one of their recommendations.
And I agree with you, that’s why nothing will be ran until it’s all setup correctly. The pictures @Dred_pirate added and your info are super helpful. I do feel their recommendation to bypass this is just a money grab
Sorry not the bypass, I mean their idea of getting me to buy the 500 gallon water tank and chill that, that was their “bypass” of plumbing this thing correctly. Should’ve used a better word.
I am trying to locate a brass version of this BPR with 1.5" in/out, I think it is acceptable to step down to 1" based off some conversations I’ve had, but still can’t find a BPR like this that’s under $1800, is that insanely high for a tool like this? Never bought one.
It can be plumbed remotely and really doesn’t need to handle the full flow rate unless you deadhead your process. I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t work for this application
