Lab Flooring?

Ime the epoxy 2 part cove will crack with exposure to the chems we use. I laid floors for 18 years and have installed these types of floors in hospitals, banks, schools, aquariums etc. Epoxy is good for a lot of things, but lab floors the way we abuse them need extra oomph to last more than a year or two.

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So am I looking at $1500 in tools and consumables for a two car garage? What to do about the ac air handler and the water heater stand? Just do the best I can?

Or stop being a DIY’r and hire someone?

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So when we put the polyurea base coat on, we throw the chip on so it covers the base coat fully. Don’t want any “dry spots” showing. Chip fully soaks into it while it dries, then we scrape the excess off, it’ll level it out. Makes it less rough if you didn’t. We literally throw chip until its fully covered. Messy process.

Scrape and vacuum all of it up and save the first scrape. Second scrape is trashed.

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Mender or epoxy fast patch is what we would do for that before applying any coating. The grind down will open that up even more too, so probably a fast patch

Regarding that crack, an angle grinder with diamond blade and some bondo is all ya need. Spend half a day grinding a V notch along all your cracks and then fill with bondo and smooth out. Spend the other half with a concrete grinder rental and run it just like a push mower. Once you’ve got everything to a consistent look, rinse it real good and let it dry overnight and then roll on your epoxy! You’ll spend at least 3k having someone do it, but it really is rewarding if you take you time. Also regarding the water heater stand. Fuck it. Just paint around it!




So we cut in that floor drain and had it concreted and painted within 24hrs. The red floor was what the lab looked like before we started in there.

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On an 800sqft garage rn dunno cost cause gave sheet to customer but probably $3-4k for this one, here’s a video

I would personally have a pro come by and do polyurea and polyaspartic over epoxy for your personal garage.

Video isn’t uploading. Lemme try later.

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Thank you for some useful info @GummyChad

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Cost of the 800 sqft we were on was $4489 to be specific.

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I’ve done both in at least five places. Self installed, professionally installed…Dur a Flex with an accelera top coat is unbeatable.

As a person who is big on pinching Pennies it is no small thing for me to say “it’s worth the 5x extra per square foot”

I truly believe it’s worth it. $0.02

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Isn’t that used in surgical suites, currently?

I believe trauma ERs as well…

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Epoxy isn’t as good as polyaspartic or polyurea imo but I guess it depends on your use. Epoxy is common in commercial but polyurea and polyaspartic is also used just as often.

In my opinion, spending some money to ensure you won’t have to regrind your floor in a few years is worth it. We grind down tons of epoxy floors to replace with poly for a reason.

lots of polyturf or what

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Still got nothing better to do?

The primary advantage is the multitude of layers—there’s a primary structural layer, several layers of texture and filler, and topcoat.

When it’s all said and done you’re getting a floor that’s over 3/8” thick.

With epoxy your getting 1/32” at best.

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We use this for top coat

I mean I’m all for thicker is better, but unless you are dropping engine blocks, the standard epoxy + urethane is goodnuff for most

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Does anyone use vitrified ceramic?

I’m leaning towards that instead of epoxy in my grow room. Also thinking about putting that down in my rotovap/vacuum oven room.

Any thoughts?