Why are you boiling shit at altitude? Trying to make that pure Jankem?
?!?What you smoking?!?
I’m merely translating @Izambard_K_Brunel‘s fine mantle manual.
Are you suggesting only jank can be distilled in Denver?
I’m sure others here might be concerned at that claim, but I’ve only watched in the mile high city.
The D8 may or may not have been compliant, but it sure was pretty.
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I don’t smoke, only vapes n dabs for me.
I was just poking fun and trying to have fun while I read up on SPD. Lot o shit in these threads its hard to get the good info out of them.
I was merely inquiring if this was a Jank thread or not. 
Why don’t you think it was compliant? Poor separation from D9?
Because it came with an SDpharms COA
I assume they are not to be trusted?
They are on the list of folks who seem to have problems seeing D9 in a D8 dominant mix.
So far I have seen zero D8 COAs posted here that qualify as “Compliant” and from a competent lab (just saw a new one, don’t know the lab, would need to see the chromatogram as well). There are several labs rubber stamping “nope, can’t see any D9”.
SDpharms certainly said there was no D9 in my first run. I could see it. So yeah, they no good at that particular analysis imo.
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P=IV V=IR V=IIR
A heating element is just a resistor. If it gets too much amperage, it gets too hot and melts. That’s the whole thing pretty much. Other wiring may fail in these things but it’s pretty easy to figure out how much resistance you need to not melt a wire in a constant AC voltage application. Most PIDs just turn a relay in and off. Using an SCR or other proportional control scheme will only make the load less than a digital (on/off) scheme.
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If it is from China, this controller should have automatic adjustment function like reset the temp control program.
Damn dude those are some whack ass analytical chemists. I know D9 and D8 come out really close but getting peak resolution on them is not that hard.
What kind of LC are you running for potency? We have a waters UPLC and the peaks on that thing look like toothpicks. Its beautiful i love the way calibrations look on it. Although I think the CBN peak consumed the CBC? I forget the order.
Thats fucked up that labs like that are allowed to exist but if D8 is where the money is at i see how corrupt labs would follow the money.
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I know I could figure out the answer but I want a 
feeding and a pat on the back, I hope someone will indulge me.
I have a mantle that I got recently, tried using it for the first time today.
If I set the SV below the PV then press the Heat button to turn it on, it doesn’t heat (obviously). But when I then adjust the SV higher than PV, it still won’t turn on.
If I set the SV at or above PV then press the Heat button to turn it on, it doesn’t stop heating, until I press the Heat button again to turn it off.
Talked to the company I bought it from. They said its a bad relay and want to switch out the mantle for a new one. I dont want to wait for shipping there, inspection, and shipping back.
Also I need it to hold a constant temperature, mantles don’t typically do that, given that they heat by turning on and off, and that the thermocouple is inside the flask creating delay/overshoot.
Since it will already heat constantly, can I plug it in to a Variac, and then use a temperature probe between the mantle and the flask, then adjust the Variac to the temperature I want?
My assumption is no, because the lower voltage will effect the stirbar, is this accurate?
Would this work if I disconnected the heating elements and fed them from the Variac, and plugged the mantle into 240v to run the stirbar?
Omg. Lol wut
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Haha thanks for your input.
Anyone think they could put it in Layman’s terms for me, @spdking 's scientific mumbo jumbo is a little over head
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Ok, went to plugged it in again to fiddle with it one last time. As soon as I plugged it in sparks flew. The wires running to the heating element aren’t coated in plastic they have these little overlapping rings. Guess they didn’t overlap tightly enough and the wires touched the mantle. Melted the wires. Its going back, let the waiting game begin.
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Glad nobody got hurt when you finished the OEMs QC for them.
Yes, despite @spdking’s extremely technical “it won’t work”, you are correct that disentangling the stir and heat functions, and controlling heat with a variac would get the job done. If done correctly, and before the mantle said “nah, I’m out”.
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Thank you that was the confirmation I was looking for 
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