at 14 it is rocket science and back in the days of pascal all programming was rocket science.
It would not be hard for you to learn the basics of arduino if you can program basic pascal at 14.
smart man.
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Ha, thank you ! but I feel a box bouncing around a screen and programming a vacuum gauge are two different things.
I idea behind it " assign the probe voltage to a value and have my bouncing box move in relation to the probe value " is easy enough. Connecting everything, writing the code, calibrating the probe and relying on it. This is a different matter.
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do what you feel comfortable with but always on the side experiment and learn I recommend
learning arduino if the tech will help but don’t count on anything you don’t understand.
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You have just given me inspiration. I’m going to search car tuner forums to see if anyone is using an Arduino to measure turbo vacuum and see if there is any open source code. Maybe then i will download an Arduino simulator and " try " lolo
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if we all work together we all progress together.
excellent idea.
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I agree !
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that you should tune it again if you move to Denver.
'cause shit boils different when you’re that high…
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def over the top.
the whole point of how PID’s work is to avoid over-shoot…but they can only achieve that if they have been trained on the process they are controlling.
tuning the PID controlling most processes is pretty trivial. set the processes up, pick a temp, and ask the machine to figure out how to make it work.
however, because the response of the liquid in our flasks changes over the course of the run, it might take a couple or three attempts to find the right spot to tune.
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Alot of these problems can be corrected with a proper auto tune.
Put back pump oil in the flask about 2/3 of half way at least.
Turn on with prob in and under vac like a regular setup or a cold trap at top joint.
Go to either room temp to 100 or room temp to 150 on auto tune. Allow system to run till it’s done.
Most of your issues will be solved by doing this.
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Ok i understand this, the pump oil having similar viscosity and thermal properties as crude being distilled.
thank you @cyclopath & @spdking 
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an idea.
if the pid can be biased so its logic gives good stability in temperature and you wish to use
an automated system but still wish to get extra temperature from your heating mantle
why not use the 120% from a variac but have it run through the pid to the mantle
that way the pid is temp setting and you have extra power for the mantle.
You know im not trying to get more power out of the mantle ?
My plan is to have better control over the heating element within the mantle.
So that instead of the PID turning the heat on and off to achieve the desired heat.
I want to use a variable power source so the mantle is constantly on but set at what ever wattage is required to achieve the desired heat.
Ultimately achieving a much finer control over the mantle temperature.
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original post was though.
if I want precise control I use a oil bath.
you heat to about 10 or 20C over the temp you want and you have ages to make sure that
the temp of the oil bath is stable.
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Well… Thank you !
I have learned something new today, i would not have thought to do that.
edit: Sorry I forgot what topic i was in … there are two I post in talking about variacs lol 
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@Izambard_K_Brunel
its better for the longevity of your glass too.
no hot spots ect.
best bit you can use anything to heat it even a $80 hotplate.
bad bit you are dealing with oil that is hot and if you use the wrong one for high temp stuff
it smokes.
silicon oil is good for the high temp stuff.
up to about 200 peanut oil is good
over that you need synthetic silicon oils that are quite expensive but last a long time.
you are looking for the smoking point of the oil and you want to be under it.
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On basic mantles you can’t really do that safely. The hesting wire need full amperage and wattage and works in a on and off method. If you do anything otherwise the wire overheats and becomes brittle bc it’s struggling to get voltage etc…same effect that happens to under powered electronic motors.
If you want actually voltage bias you need to change to a myca material type that that also has a ground loop in circuit.
One of the only ways to regulate voltage is complex vfd. It allows the same voltage and amps but shortens and reduced the input frequency. This means the wire has the same power but is intermittently given less cycles and such.
Remember adjusted cycles actually make mantles less accurate and less useable. And stretch out your process.
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Ok I understand now you mentioned electric motors. I have had plenty of experience of people destroying fans in grow rooms from using incorrect motor control.
Its all about frequency.
edit: Now thinking about it, I may indeed try to make a mantle for a little side project.
Thank you.
proof
I call bull shit
nichrome 1000 to 1100C
kanthal 1400C
your talking shit.
shall we check your glass next against a polarimeter and release that too.
after all some times it really hard to anneal those joints right.
https://www.agrintl.com/product/polarimeter/
I am in the process of making one so I could do you the service.
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ac and dc motors also was an interesting subject I did.
pulse width modulation blah blah.
its a resistor man.
V=IR
not an inductive motor they have nothing to do with each other.
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I never knew what a polarimeter was or that it existed until this moment
2 things you have taught me today !
that is a very good point.
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