When running FF I’ll run cold to avoid picking up the color from the water soluble flavonoids that can get washed off along with the hydrocarbons
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Wow! That was an answer, J! I went back and looked to see that you already won member of the month so I can nominate you. But if I could, it would be for this post. Thank you for keeping the knowledge accessible and fresh.
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Codemanmakeshash posted this a while back
Waxplug is correct that silica 60 is for removing moisture and separating the pigments.
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Would you be so kind to elaborate the organic labs and the acidic clay connection?
Why do organic labs use different clays( production wise it seems the same problem of organic derived clays vs. Acid treated with is not an organic process?)…
I was under the impresion being organic has alot to do with material sources which in this case seem to be very scarse.
Anyway i can say put you bento on top of every cake, and youll love your result 
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As far as I know they are not allowed to use certain acids only organic ones like citric acid. You’re right there’s not that many sources for organic material but nonetheless it’s always good to have options when the situation arises. I used organic labs as an example but there are multiple reasons why you would want to avoid an acid altogether
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for instance if Oregon outlaws CRC.. lol (which it didn’t)
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Someone did state using neutral after acidic would help with ph… But seems alotnto do with powder ratios at least in alchohols
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A lot of clays are acidified with H2sO4 which you can tell that It’s not organic…unless you feed the right microbes organic sugars and they poop out h2so4 that would be though…
Yet I digress
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What was your original chlorosorb ph? Went to have loco order me a few buckets and now you have 3 different ph styles, i really liked the original that you sent me the sample of
pH is a 3. It’s the acidic version
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@Future I’m sorry thought that one needed to be pinned I guess I better ask y’all at leaders landing before pinning something to make sure we’re all in agreements
Quiet few threads I think should be pinned might cut down on unwanted posting but might get messy quick
O I see I pinned it wrong the way u did it the user can decide if they want it pinned or not badass
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You pinned it globally, don’t do that. Feel free to pin a thread or two in each subcategory if they stand out.
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Globally makes it stay at the top for everyone right?
And thank you buddy ,yeah I feel a few should be pinned
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I wanted to add some more information to this thread that I think will be helpful
The insert style cartridges are very helpful and speed up the filter reset process. They allow the user to prep their filters prior and just do a quick swap without having to remove the whole crc spool from your rack. @shopbvv, @Bhogartsale, and @AFS_Filter sell cartridge style filters.
@mikegnarly555 hooked me up with a free car basically when he sent me these to try out. Good looking out brother 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CZOS4qorhZA/?utm_medium=copy_link
They are a bit pricey but certainly worth it. In order to get the FULL benefit, you will need 2 of each size at least, making it a big investment. What I recommend to people is that they try the AFS filter cups first and once they are ready they can invest in the Stingers.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CY9NiAMlgTQ/?utm_medium=copy_link
To keep the outside of the cartridge clean while you load powders you can use a @Killa12345 6” base to hold the Stinger, AFScup while you load up. Once it’s ready, cap it with its plastic cover while it sits in waiting to be used.
If you ever needed to scale down powder but needed the depth still, a simple flat reducer will allow you to change between different size Stingers or AFS cups without having to swap or remove your crc spool from your rack.
Cartridge style filters are definitely the way to optimize the filtration process
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Appreciate you guys always.
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The trash can full of spent biomass?
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Haha yes for some reason last night I saw a face
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