Keep your high quality bars 6-10" from the canopy and you can’t fuck up. Run them hot as balls, and keep your VPD in check based of LST not ambient. Oh, and if you like to play on the edge you can feed them into like 10 EC if you do it right.
UV FR and the spectrum from LED’s are actually more responsible for the terps, polyphenols, and other flavor and aroma compounds then any other input. So that’s a good one.
I can also add almost any organic input I want to help get my brix up and help the lights do their thing.
You can always just search through my prior posts. I’m sure I’ll share the bangers I just brought inside eventually. Gotta hunt. I don’t buy other people’s cuts like you guys, shit if I did I’d probably never share. Why would you?
I know you love your flower, I’m just wondering if the bag appeal gets any better. You say it smokes good, and I believe it’s got terps, but all the photos you’ve shown of your flower have been eh. Got anything that has really nice bag appeal?
Your opinion on my $200 cellphone pictures means 0 to me. I have no problem selling my mids for $2000/lb faster than I can grow em. I thought you were curious about the co2. Obviously this whole shit has devolved cause you have some issue with me.
Not at all man. You’re here talking shit on others quality, and I’m asking you to show your flower. If your method is so superior your flower must be too
If I can’t grow good weed with living soil and a certain light that light ain’t for me. Simple.
I have grown EVERY way you can imagine except with the super cool moisture meters and crop steering dosing(tomato industry shit) and FOR ME and MY BRAND living soil will be what I do commercially till I die or something that works better FOR ME is created.
It’s a marketing point in my state market
It’s creates more biological diversity which leads to better phenotype expression
I’m not putting anything into the landfill
The grow store isn’t my partner anymore
It make a cheaper/better lb and as a business owner that REALLY matters.
If I have to grow like jungle boys for led to work as well I’m out.
But I will keep trying and I will get the lights lower and watch the vpd better and see how it goes.
The question of more volume vs less volume is relevant but which is superior is location specific. Where I’m located, the integral of temperature difference between the optimal in the grow and the outside is net negative. By that I mean if I take each point of time (let’s say each day) and multiply those by the average temperature delta for each period, and add all of those values up for a year, there is essentially more heat leaving the room than entering. So in my case, it’s actually optimal to have very little insulation (although admittedly it does require more peak capacity this way). If I was growing in Phoenix, I would probably insulate the shit out of my rooms.
Regarding room size: if the room was perfectly insulated, any btu put in (via lights for instance) would need to come out. Doesn’t matter how big it is. Maybe it would take longer to overheat, but eventually it would. By increasing the room size, assuming the air is mixing, all we’re really doing is increasing the surface area, or decreasing how insulative the room is.
Now, to comment on the whole “if you’re using refrigerative dehumidification LEDs won’t save you money” thing:
First, it’s almost certainly cheaper to add heat to the room via propane/natural gas than it is with electric. The other factor is peak loading. If you run HPS, you constantly have to remove that heat load. Which means on a super hot day, you need the AC to do that AND offset the ambient rise. With the LEDs, sure you’re adding heat just to reheat most of the time, but you can just turn off the reheat on that hot day. I find this quite a bit less expensive as far as up front cost because 1MMBTU of heat is a fuckload cheaper to install than 1MMBTU of AC. All that said, you can see how this is less of a concern if your rooms are extremely well insulated (ie there are no real hot and cold days).
I think the issue is people are like I’m going to switch technologies, so they litterally chop and swap their HID for LED. When they do this it leaves then wanting WAY more quality and savings wise. The amount of variables in any grow design are massive. No one solution is going to work for everyone. here are two crude designs to show how/why LEDS achieve great effeciency.
Also, I’m not trying to dick swing. I am passionate about LED. I’m not going to roll over based off conjecture when I have real world experience contrary, weather or not I feel like “proving it”
@vortal. Not to get off topic but, I made the switch to soil less and mixing my own salts a few months ago. (close to a year now) do you mind sharing what organic inputs your adding to raise brix? I currently use Mr Fulvic as a drench and a foliar, and the occasional foliar with individual salts. Nothing has really worked to get my brix above 5%.
Aminos, humic/fulvic, and potassium. Then you gotta help increase the metabolism of the plants (higher heat, air turbidity, and an appropriate VPD for your target.) this all plays off the more useful spectrum of the LED. There are a few ways to skin the cat but overall that is my method. With the right genetics you should have them bleeding sugar.