If you select a male that shows signs of flowering later than the average population… then yes, more likely than not you’ll find that gene passes onto a percentage of your progeny. You might select for this, but typically not.
Now… males that show signs of flowering before the average population, are almost never selected for. They can carry hermaphadism and a higher fiber production… two traits you’re definitely not interested in.
A female from clone is not going to fall into your “all other things equal”, the female came from a seed at some point and so follows the same rules. Likely you have a clone that’s an F1-F3, which means any breeding with her will pass on other possible traits within the lineage. But, if you have an a clone from an IBL line, your progeny is going much more stable right off the bat.
Selecting father plants is fun. Start with a large population to choose from. When I am interested in a particular strain, I usually buy 4-5 packs to choose keepers. First, look at the structure. Diamond or Christmas Tree shaped plants with symmetrical branching are easier to train and yield better.Ones with the wonky and annoying “Breath” structure are always personally discarded.
Check the trichs out under a scope. Do a stem rub and smell for possible expressions. If they fit all of the above criteria, I usually choose from the last to show nanners, meaning more stability according to DJ Short.
Don’t worry about father plants herming if you disrupt the roots. They already have that Y chromosome. About every 6 months, I saw about 1" off each side of the root ball and fill with fresh soil in the same pot.
I introduce the father plant after week 1 of flower for maximum pollination. You don’t him to “blow his load” too early.
When a female plant starts going into senescence around week 6, the root growth virtually stops to put energy towards finishing the flower. I flip them back into veg, which keeps the roots going and the plant tries to finish the seeds. This makes larger more viable beans as a result. Colin from Ethos might be controversial, but this trick increases germ rates and makes even immature seeds vigorous. It also gives a head start on female re-veg if you have to worry about plant count.
If you have a special keeper dad, you can use ethephon (Florel) to do a “masculinized” S1. Spray the stems and nodes (not the leaves) every few days, until you start to see female flowers. When you run a Punnett square, you will end up with 50% males, 25% females and 25% non-viable.
Here is my Apple Fritter x Pure Michigan dad in need of a haircut. Notice the diamond structure. (I see a lateral branch I should have taken off, damn it.). He smells like a skunk in a pine forest farted on a McDonald’s apple Pie. He was the last to show nanners and has visible trichs on the leaves when scoped.
So glad you know what to look for in male genetics.
My old skunks would stink after their first set of true leaves came out. Just nasty greasy skunk ass. Wish I still had them. They left me in 2000.
I got my skunks indirectly from a guy named Warren from Ukiah CA. They were so fucking skunky. Total sativa heady with that taste that almost gagged you. Not for everyone. These had to be before the fruit was bred into them to mellow out the stank.
My brother…you and Ag are the ones id send them to.
I have like 4 beans that were bred in 99’. I’m sure they are too old to germ. Maybe I could send them off to be worked on?
It’s going to be a crap shoot. I would put sandpaper in a box, shake for a few minutes and scuff them to thin the seed coat. Soak them for 24 hours with a drop of fulvic acid and proceed with your usual germination technique.
Whatever you do, don’t use giberellic acid, which makes them streeeeeetch and is rarely successful.
As always, thank you for the advice. I’ll give them a whirl.
If they germ…I’ll hopefully have a 5050 shot at a male. These are a 3x backcross I started on back in 95’.
