Dual cold trap configuration for SPD

Uhhhhh…brother bring one by. I will do a side by side and inject fog into a trap and use a sweep to show you real time what’s going on.

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@goldleaf_scientific i believe u have this design on ur new spd line, wanna chime in with any videos or testing notes, as to why this design is better for as an additional cold trap.

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That’s the inside of one
Screenshot_20200421-135550_Instagram

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Yesssss, this is prototype. The actual ones are production models very very clean and better internal geometry. That cut away is just a sample for people to see what it is.

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How much are they. What does something like that weigh?? Looks heavy

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I’m not exactly sure. The shop has all the prices. It’s not light but it’s also of a high end stainless and tig welded everywhere.

You are 100% correct about its function. The inner wall forces the vapor from the top left joint down to the bottom of the trap before it can go to the inside and up to the top. We took this idea one step further and the inner portion of our traps are baffled so once the vapor reaches the inside it travels to each side before it can go up to the next level.
The staggered style traps are a very economic alternative especially if you have lots of dry ice around, but for those that use a immersion chiller for cooling the trap then the high efficiency style trap is going to save you from buying two immersion chillers.
IMO stainless steel traps is not as economical at this size. It is true it will transfer heat better but that tends to make more of a difference with very heavy loads. If it transferred heat better the dry ice would just be eliminated faster. I think we probably gain more heat from environment than the heat load from residual vapor so heat transfer isn’t the limiting factor here

Youll have a very heavy load on ur cold trap if ur ramping up fast and still have solvent in ur crude.
Insulate the SS with a vaccum jacket arounnd the whole thing and insulate, then environment shouldnt be a factor.
Fuck it make some bugati cold traps. Triple vacuum jacketed with the middle one connected to a ultra low chiller lol (like the triple walled reactors) swappable middle column/baffle depending on ur purpose(like a key well). All triclamp compaitible

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Since we moved to a dual ss cold trap on my spd at @BG305 lab we have yet to see any fluids ever hit the second trap and I don’t think he has ever had to change the oil in the pumps after the intial flush.

Maybe he could confirm that as I just let him borrow all my equipment and left oil down there for him but I don’t recall him ever having to change the oil and never really seen the spd ever over 50 microns even in heads

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Yeah no doubt but in that case I usually recommend a condenser before the trap like our auxilary condenser. Keep it at ~ 5°C and it knocks out most of the volatiles before hitting the trap and makes the whole system cleaner, easier, and faster.
I would love nothing more than make a super advanced and expensive trap but I have learned to be much more conservative these days in regards to design. There’s a balance that has to be achieved between function and cost and you leave money on the table if you’re too far ahead or behind the curve.

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This is correct. I have not had a single drop out of the second cold trap come into the receiving flask. The only reason I could not get the system into the single digits was because of the GL fitting not sealing properly. This is why I asked @spdking what compound needed under -80c to condense. He explained that it was not a function of condensation the bring the trap down to cryo temps.

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What gl connectors are there still on that system. Just on the condenser I though. We have thermo well onnthe temps

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GL’s are fairly leaky and are difficult to get sealed fully. You mean you couldn’t get your system into single digit microns? I’m assuming your gauge is past the traps?

It actually becomes less efficient when you do this. You are altering how the pathway allows conductive flow under vacuum.

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This lil bastard. :face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

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Have you checked that the seal inside doesn’t have a crack and might need to be changed?

You could maybe put some sealing tape on there?

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That’s just a cap though isn’t it? Little rubber gasket in there?

Yes, I even tried some Vac grease but it still leaks. Let me see if I have as video.

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time for a new gasket

Ya i suggest buying a bag of these oring seals when you do buy it. That place was always the source of my leaks. Got to the point where a new one every few runs was easier then trying to finaggle it.