If his chiller isnt working or changing temp its not being overworked.
I’ve opted to use these settings after timing the output at different temps and vacs and came to the conclusion that since the chiller always goes up in temp over the hourish it recovers 5l pushing it a little harder was more time efficient. Any loss acceptable. I’ve been checking how far up the second condenser the condensation occurs to determine if the system handles it. I’m gonna try and throw the immersion probe in the mix and see what happens. Gonna preheat the incoming material aswell.
Edit: i have a welch 3.2 cfm diaphragm pump for the roto. @anon42519203 btw, the roto goes down to 9 torr once it’s evaped all the etho. It normally stays at 30-40ish. I have it set to 9 torr on the controller.
3.2 cfm seems really low for that size system. If your chiller isnt keeping up, change the heated source temp or vac depth as @cyclopath mentioned. Adding cold traps will help speed you up because it traps even more solvent. Helps keep more solvent as well.
A cold source is a vacuum source as well. Crypumps work by attractinf molecules based on their condensing temperature. Molecules will build up on a crypump, which relieves the amount in the surrounding area. Just a mental reference for how a system works.
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Well, i looked it up again to be sure and it’s actually a 2.3 cfm diaphragm pump. So even lower than we thought… It keeps 30-40 torr depending on heat. Then this run it went to 13.5 when it was done at 58.5c with chiller at -0.5 set to -30. First 5l done in 39 min 55 sec. Started the timer at 30 torr, 47c waterbath and chiller at -27c.
you may try pumping the temp to 75C real quick just to make sure you got most
For sure. Thank you
We decarb in a roto @120c for 1-2 hours after activity on the condenser stops. No issues.
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What are you using in your waterbath, oil? And are you pulling vac during?
Mineral oil. And yes usually pulling vacuum but you don’t really have to.
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My roto can’t go higher than 100c. Wouldn’t rotoing under full vac at 85-95c decarb the material fairly fast? If 85c is needed to start the decarbing process I would think putting it under vac would facilitate full decarb without comprising end product?
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Our experience has been that we need the temp up higher for it to decarb properly and in a timely manner, even under vacuum. I’m not a chemist so I can’t give you the most thorough explanation as to why that is.
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I’m debating with myself wether or not i should try and go for partial/full decarb in the roto or transfer it to a beaker and hotplate.
Because it is the activation energy required to break the bond, not the evolution of CO2 that is the rate limiting step.
That energy is provided by bumping into other molecules in your flask. The energy transferred by those collisions increases with temp. think crashing your car at 10mph vs 20mph vs 100mph…get it too hot, and you provide enough energy to break other bonds…
get it just right, and the bumper falls off. get it wrong you’ve got CBN (although Δ10/10a are more likely w/out O2 I believe).
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you can almost certainly take your roto higher if you swap the H2O for mineral oil. I think I’ve even read veg oil on here somewhere.
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Thanks! This is very helpful.
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The setting on my ai roto stops at 100c. I don’t know if that can be changed. So, am i risking turning it into cbn or other compounds if i try and decarb under vac in the roto? My connection sucks, the links didn’t open for me.
Should i just take it out and use hotplate and pot instead?
Btw, i can now confirm that it was sugars burning. I heated up water in the pot and the bf and that dissolved it right out. So thanks for that info, saved me some solvent being wasted.
Gotcha. I’m not sure it can’t be changed by pressing the right button. I can see why they’d set it that way, and I could get around it via surgery. not recommending that route unless you wanna go there.
no. unless you leave it in there for waaay too long. you can find curves. I’m currently feeling lazy.
Meh. you could. vac doesn’t hurt. nor help really, except it helps get the last of your solvent & some of your terps out.
I am doing the hotplate for now. Subzero etho seems to have pulled way less unwanted compounds. I’m not getting caramelization it seems. We’ll see in a minute when I’m done.
Edit: I’m gonna check the manual and call ai to ask about potential temp changes.
I decarb in a beaker in my mantle. It makes for a quick decarb and ultimate temp control. I never fill the beaker over half full. I usually see decarb times between 25 to 45 minutes with stir bar spinning away. Have had zero decarb issues this way and material is nice and hot to put into boiling flask following decarb.
I also soak any crude in etoh st a 7:1 ratio and cool to below -67°C by burying media bottles in di fof minimal 3 hours. It has worked well for me.
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