Decarbing gone wild

which AI rotovap are you using? This is the control panel off the 2l, I don’t imagine they got much higher tech on the bigger ones.

image

behind that label is most likely one of these
https://www.google.com/search?q=PID+controller

pushing and holding the set button for 3 seconds might drop you into programming mode. where the temp limit it set. (based on dozens of these I’ve interacted with).

chances are there is a LOCK function you need to unset first.

AI might tell you this. more likely they won’t. if they won’t, using the manual from another controller will probably give you enough clues about the glyphs displayed to navigate the interface. just remember to note the settings on anything you change. :slight_smile:

and yeah, beaker on a hotplate or in your mantle will work too.

I don’t recommend the above if it’s outside your comfort zone. I’ve beat my head against the controller on my still for about 20min before I found where a minion had set it to cooling mode rather than heating mode, so it was turning OFF the heating element to try and warm the still up!

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The 10l solventvap. Mine looks different. It has a dial you press to enter settings for temp and rpm. I’m gonna look into it when i get back from the 4th.

That’s great that you get those times. I tried degasing instead of decarbing and into the spd, but even just cracking the valve has lead to volcanoing super fast within seconds of turning the vac on with preheated materiel. Didn’t do that with full decarb, so I’m going back to that. It seems i need a couple of hours for my decarb to not go wild.

Atleast with the steam cleaning i can get anything out of the bf using only water and iso.

Do you have a needle bleeder valve at the vac valve? By having that open and slowly closing and I mean slowly I avoid any boil overs. Did you use a boiling flask all assembled? Are you stepping your temps incrementally?

Fully assembled poured straight from degassed pot at 110c into leak tested system. As soon as i just cracked the 12 cfm pump it volcanos so fast it’s in the receiving flasks in 1 sec. Had to switch to the 5.3 cfm pump first to get down to vac then back to 12 cfm.

No bleeder valve.

get yourself a good needle valve…a controllable leak is a really handy tool.

you want a decent one, so that it only leaks when you ask it too.

Would this work? With the nitrogen of course, so i wouldn’t let any air in.

I decarb in the roto takes me about 45mins to do 3liters and you strip a bunch of volitales. I usually lose about 8%or so from the decarb

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What roto do you use?

Sure, but a needle valve (or actuall vac controller) close to the pump won’t put air in your boiling flask either

Hmm, yeah i could use the regulator from the roto. I’m getting new vac valves soon too.

A Chinese 20liter and a across 5liter

So your ai 5l can decarb you’re saying?

Ya you have to reprogram it and replace the water with something else but ya when it comes out of the rot it can go straight to the spd or wiped film and nothing is present below 130c or so Saves a shit ton of time

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Yeah, that’s why i called them to ask about the advanced menu, cause i don’t want to fuck things up by mistake.

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@anon42519203

I’m about to shoot myself… i tried preheating to avoid the volcano, it didn’t work out to well most of the time, but with some vac breaking and patience i got the runs started without the volcano blowing up half of the time. I decided to go back to filling the flask after vac testing and starting the run the next day.

So i started the run today without heat with the 12 cfm. Vac went down to 2370 fast, mantle set to 166, temp outside flask was 120, vapor temp 24c dial on mantle set to level 4;300 ml to 2l. Stir bar set at 10% or 185 rpm.

Between 15 min to half an hour later it went from 2000 micron to 2370 saying it had a leak. Mantle was set to 190, temp went from 143.6 at 7:05 to 178.6, stirbar set at 12%. Vapor temp went from 34.4 to 86.1. I noticed that the stirbar finally started stirring at 7:20, so i went to write the numbers down and when i turned back the volcano of death had ripped the entire 1100ml of product straight through the entire system. I’m am now calming down before i break everything down to clean it up.

What happened? It was running fine for a full half hour, granted the stirbar wasn’t spinning in the beginning, but this was the last thing I expected to happen after the vac fully going.

This volcano issue only arose after i added the 12 cfm pump into the mix, but then again I’ve not ran two runs with the same configuration either. So it’s somewhat hard to figure this out. I’m gonna try out just using the 5.3 cfm pro8 when i get back from a much needed break to see if that rectifies the situation. But i had it volcano with that one too when i preheated the solution, so…

At this point it seems i must have over pressurised the system and should have maybe scaled temps slower, but I’ve done this run before with no volcano. So I’m thinking I’m doing something wrong with the 12 cfm.

Whats the best way to decarb in the roto? What temp should I hold on? and rotation speed?
TYIA

@ravspd can you get your rotovap bath above 100C?

If not, you should look for a different solution.

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If you have a across roto they will tell you how to reprogram it to go up to 200c. I use duratherm s as my fluid and go all the way up to 145c it decarb a and strips volitales but be caefull when going that Joey the duratherm expands so lower your bath and start with a slow rotation speed till ur comfortable

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Found this little gem from @Photon_noir in another thread while browsing. I figured since this seems to be the de facto decarb thread, posting it here may be helpful for everyone.