Umm- ups trucks are over 120 and no ac. especially the trailers,
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Im from the nrtherlands and in large grow we always veg under the same hps we flower under. Think about if u been veging for week no more room to get in there, atleats the way we grow sea of grean style. Short veg time for amnesia haze i would veg 2/3day and then set the clock to flowering.
There are numerous growers here in netherlands who live by this method. And hit 1gram per watt some even in big gardens 100 x600 w hps.
If i can help u out with info im alesys ready to pass knowledge ive used to make clones for 8 years and normal grows about 17 years.
I would go the led way moch more control iver youre plants i would run 6000k citizen clu48-1212 they are afordible i have a contact in estonia who sells them dirt cheap ive been building led lights for years i could help u source out stuff on the cheap. Trust me it doenst have to cost a dollar per watt but the lights will last for ever if u dont run the chips to high.
The sweetspot is between 32 watt per chip doing 2.77 umol per watt or 50 watt 2.5 umol perr watt so 200 wat x 2.5 umol 500 umol for motherplants is perfect. Plus the heat is less so you can get closer to the plant and then umol goes up way more.
Ive grown a small room 2600 watt led.
7 m2 2.5x3m.
100 plants the care taker let 40 die because of being to busy chasing his dick, ive vegged them a bit longer to conpensate the losing 40 plants.
2 weeks s5 haze veg 8 weeks flowering gor back a whopping 3760 grams from the samsung lm561c
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What’s your cloning method!? @Humptydumpty
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I recently switch from hps to a mars hydro budget led😂fce6500, still more cost upfront but damn🤐what a light.
Got nugs where I normally had fluff from being lazy on the lollipopping, maybe not the best led out there but for that price damn.
Do an led tutorial build @Humptydumpty. Love the haze talk too…
I used rhizophon and canna activator trichoderma mixed together, and 4x4 77 cube trays. Humidity 85 procent first 3 days then build down every a bit to around 40 heating mats for the roots probe inserted in the wet cub. Set at 18 degrees 10 day 70% will have root day 12 everything will jave roots and what doesnt have we would throw away.
Im a real pasionist when it comes to quality especially for my, beloved haze thats why i started led growing i was born between the hps light so to speak. Nothing compares to a good led light quality density just the best of everything taste smell quality and more weed les heat.
Sorry for typ errors i have a new phone and still have trouble with it greetings humpty
I currently dont do any build im exploring the conversion world right now, u can always hit me up to chat or what u need to know about growing leds happy to share wath if learned over time
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U know what just for the hell of it, i will search thru my garage i should have a couple of drivers heatsinks and led just need to dig them up:joy:
im happy to walk any one thru the building procederes
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They also get osha fines for that heat. Paying them is probably built in to their budget.
Finally checked out our metal halide de’s running on gavita fixtures, doesn’t fire worth a shit!!
Checked with a ppfd meter at 2’ from the bulb I’m seeing 550 at 100% on the fixture
The fixtures had to be turned up all the way to give us the right ppfd at canopy height. Using hps @ 50% would give me a similar ppfd.
I’m assuming this is all because my fixture isn’t firing the bulb correctly like someone above suggested would be the case.
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That was me. The non-firing issue always happens with DE MH and DE HPS ballast, at least in Gavita, and I assume in any DE HPS luminaire. The low PPFD is a different issue but also may be affected by running DE MH with a DE HPS ballast.
MH and DE MH have very low PPF (photosynthetic photon flux) output compared to HPS and DE HPS. PPFD is derived from PPF using the inverse square law. Plus, MH and DE MH have piss poor PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) - meaning they have a low input watt to PAR range umol conversion.
Regarding PPFD, for example, a Gavita Pro Plus DE HPS 1000W and Ushio Super HPS DE 1000W emit 2100 PPF. But a Ushio DE MH 1000W and Phantom PRO DE MH 1000W only emit 1800 PPF. And it’s even worse for other DE MH because they aren’t as good, for example:
- Solis Tek 4 K DE MH 1000W = 1550 PPF
- Solis Tek 6 K DE MH 1000W = 1500 PPF
- Iluminar 4K DE MH 1000W = 1500 PPF
- Iluminar 6K DE MH 1000W = 1350 PPF
- Grower’s Choice 6K DE MH 1000W = 1350 PPF
And I assume some mfgs who don’t even list their PPF is because it’s so low, like NanoLux MaxPar DE MH 1000W.
The only way to run DE MH without firing issues is with a DE MH ballast. But you’ll still have very low PPF, so the lamp will need to be closer to the canopy for the same PPFD as a DE HPS. And besides, DE MH has a very short useful lifetime, and DE MH spectra suck compared to DE HPS. In today’s world, there are no reasons to use MH or DE MH.
There are DE MH/HPS combo lamps available, but I haven’t looked into them. Still, they suffer from the same issues as DE MH, except maybe their spectra are a bit better for plant growth.
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Never say never. When the outdoor weather is cold, I think the heat from the mh is useful. I have always thought that the old hid lights are still better than having to use heat, at least from an efficiency standpoint. I wish more people would heat their houses with grow lights and produce food as a byproduct of their energy consumption.
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I didnt know they made de halide? I ise sodium for veg as well? Works fine
Worked well till a storm knocked out the power for weeks.
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We are getting ready to bring our moms into the grow soon, since we don’t need the full umol from the hps lights we have two options, either dim them or turn half of them off. In my mind I would think turning half off would be a better option since it don’t mess with the spectrum, but it also seems like when the lights are dimmed they put off more of a white light but that could just be my eyes. Anyone have any input?
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I would get a meter in there and just check for yourself. It could be your eyes, or it could be the fact that you are getting a different spectrum based off the gas charge in the bulb.
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Can you raise the fixtures or grow using higher PPFD than you normally would, so you can operate the fixtures at 100% power? I ask because choosing between turning half the fixtures off and dimming them are both suboptimal options.
If you dim them, there is a significant shift in spectrum with a drop in red and an increase in green. While green photons do help keep the plants short and improve canopy penetration, the plants will have a reduced photosynthetic rate from the reduction in red photons and reduced rate of transpiration from the increased green photons (and therefore the uptake of mass flow nutrients like calcium, boron, etc.).
If you turn off half the fixtures, you will probably see a steep drop in uniformity. If you have very high PPFD uniformity (>95% min/average) with all the fixtures running, the impact of turning half of them off may be reduced. Some plants or sections of plants may get significantly lower PPFD than the best-lit plants. If you’re not flowering them, then it’s less of a concern. I agree with @vortal (like usual 
) - you should measure PPFD. I would map out PPFD uniformity on a square meter or 4’x4’ grid. If you find the lowest PPFD areas are at an acceptable PPFD level, then you’re good to go.
You are correct that dimming the fixtures seems to increase white light. Our eyes perceive green light very well, and when the lamps are dimmed, green light spikes, so your eyes interpret that as an increase in white light (overall brightness). You may increase lumens even though you reduce PPFD, so the room could seem brighter to the naked eye even though it’s not.
Here’s what happens as you dim DE HPS lamps. These data are from testing Gavita DE HPS, but all DE HPS will look similar when dimmed:
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I’m able to lift my lights up higher so we’ll have to try out a couple different methods, I’ve got an apogee meter to dial it in, worst case to get even coverage I’ll dim them a bit and leave them all on.
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