Sure did
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We have some threads about Kratom on the forum. Perhaps see those or start a new thread with your kratom questions!
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Same thing happened to me before when trying a LLE with heptane on ethanol crude. Rough first pass then the LLE worked way better
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I have a filter table that is basically 3x drain droyds on a skid and am looking to do room temperature scrubs through each of the three filters. first being a carbon filter/10um. Second would be Tclay/10um. and the last would be a standard 10um paper filter as precaution. All after running through a particulate filter out of extraction. I have been getting those weird degradation colors like the purple and weird grayish green. I believe it is cause by something retaining moisture through my process like sugars. Any suggestions?
thanks yet again for some powerful info!
I was looking into other methods of degumming that would have been way too energy intensive to scale, this one may be doable right out of the extraction process.
Would a pH probe be better than paper? I kind of dislike using paper because often times our solution is colored to begin with…
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I ran a hydro store for years. The probe on most meters is only warrantied for 6 months. They break if you let them dry out even once. They also throw weird readings if you use them in straight iso/etoh/meoh.
I always advocate people use paper or drops for being accurate and don’t break like meters.
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This is likely a pH imbalance.
I’d suggest stepping down your microns. It’s no good doing 10um three times, you can step down and improve your filtration with each following filtration.
Second, Carbon is gonna get you acidic and unless you’re using MagSil, you shouldn’t be getting too alkaline, although the purple color is what indicate alkalinity.
I’d start water washing and ending with several neutral rinses. This should address the color problem.
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What @AgTonik said! Probes are unreliable in anything but solutions of mostly water. The color of your solution should not greatly affect the paper color. Just look at a drop of the solution on a piece of white paper to see the darkness during the ideal reading period and compare it to the color strip.
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With the basic citric acid method, The one with water and CA and refluxing, i know its a weak acid, but i have a question, is it okey to use a refluxcondenser made out of copper?
Or will the citric acid attack The copper?
I mean The only thong that will be i contact with the copper tube is just water right?
The acid stays in the flask?
Citric acid isn’t going to dissolve your copper, especially at these concentrations. Correct me if I’m wrong folks.
However, before setting this experiment up, I would recommend soaking your copper condenser in citric acid/water to remove any copper oxide. copper oxide is acid soluble, and you don’t want copper oxide in your extract.
That being said, don’t use copper, use glass 
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Citric acid does not dissolve metallic copper, @Kurresmack , but it does chelate copper ions from copper oxides… mainly cuprous 1+ (Cu2O), but also cupric 2+ (CuO). I’m not sure why you would be refluxing a solution containing citric acid, but if you don’t want traces of organo-metallic complexes in your boiler, I would advise against using a copper condenser. Technically, yes, the acid remains in the flask, but splashing and microdroplets commonly allow solutes to escape the bulk solution, if only for a little while. If there is oxide on the copper surface (there always is), then the citric acid can jump up, dissolve it, and eventually fall back into the boiler.
Follow @PolyC 's advice! 
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Cant copper be used to remediate sulphur contamination? Could be a win win 
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Anyone have concerns that the citric acid degumming might create any of the toxic unknowns that @iontrap identified in d8?
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Well if we figure out what terpene hes talking about reacting along the cbd we might be on to something. Im thinking limonene one because its readily available. He says the terpene will allow the olivetol to be readily progressed into a cannabinoid.
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Maybe I missed something: I thought he was talking about reacting terpenes with the excess olivetol to eliminate it and yield cannabinoids. And they pretty much all do that, it’s one of the reasons olivetol is heavily controlled.
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If I’m correct he was stating that & it was also found which terpene in the thread that works no?
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I guess we could ask him or look up patent for olivetol → noid rdx and it should be there.
I probably read through that part TBH, I get to grow real weed so I’m more concerned in making sure I don’t have toxins in my products than about how I would get them out if I made d8. D8 blinders
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I’ll see if I can dig it up here in a few if someone else can’t, just getting some things taken care of
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Yes we know. I hope the cannabis you grow is real. If its fake you might want to have Men in Black visit so they can see what planet it comes from.
Anyways seems olivetol is being reacted with carene or some shit https://pubs.rsc.org/-/content/articlelanding/1988/p1/p19880001243/unauth#!divAbstract
limonene is not the one it seems.
Oh well if I was actually running this synthesis I might search out more info but it is just novelty at the moment. Surely the future will look back at growing cannabis as an art and not a slave labor.