I’ve seen tons of green hydrocarbon extract. Maybe it was a low quality batch or there was another issue with the system like it was done at high temps, long soaks, etc.
Maybe the water lowers the amount of reds (super non polar) that can dissolve in the hydrocarbon, without effecting chlorophyll as much. That could make the extract a green tint.
Hydrocarbon extract would have to soak for hours to turn green
Also, grinding your material will expose chlorophyll
butane holds just a little water. warm might be part of the problem too…presumably warm butane will hold more water. I do know that folks reporting green hydrocarbon extracts report that tossing the solvent, or adding/regenerating their mol sieves solves the problem. so I blame water for chlorophyl pickup in non-polar solvents.
I documented my attempts to wash the green out of RSO for someone around here somewhere, but I’ve tried a dozen queries and can’t locate it right now. it works a little.
I tried this once, can’t say I was successful
“The long hydrocarbon (phytol) tail attached to the porphyrin ring makes chlorophyll fat-soluble and insoluble in water.”
How much should I dilute for carbon filtering? Does it need to be 10:1 like winterizing or can I get away with less ethanol?
You should do your filtering at the same as you’re winterizing, and after everything recover solvent…
The crude I’m working with now I’ve already winterized and recovered solvent. So dilute 10:1 again for carbon filter?
Personally, I would take it back to 10:1 for my filtering… You can probably get away with 5-6:1, but I have never gone that low on my ratios. Consider it something learned! Next time, do everything at the same time and you’ll only have to recover your solvent once.
That’s the plan from now on. Thank you for the help
As the good captain and the others are saying, carbon is your friend for removing chlorophyll. Always has been. 10:1 ratio solvent to crude for the smoothest filtration.
Here’s your proof.
Silica on bottom of stack correct?
If you’re using DE, than DE goes on the bottom. Otherwise, I believe you are correct, and you want the silica on the bottom.
Edit: If you’re using DE you could also put a small layer on top of the stack
It depends. Usually 1-3 or 1-4 but sometimes more like 1-10 if it’s bad. That’s 450g per measurement
Yes, i used bento as the top (cause carbon is supposed to work better after the crude has gone through that), carbon in the middle and silica or de on the bottom. DE started leaching something through that got stuck in the rotovap, so I stopped using that entirely. Thank you @spdking for spending a while talking me through it on a phonecall to figure that out.
Similar to the acidic process, it was my understanding that chlorophyll could be hydrolyzed, breaking it into polar and nonpolar parts and allowing it’s removal. This seemed to be the trick with @beaker’s iso boil technique.
Search “green grinch”. I rid 3 day old biomass (that I dug out of the trash bin (biomass was in a garbage bag, (no crosscontaimination) spun thru a panda etoh from black ass green to a reddish tinted etoh. It’s all in the thread.
so we can haz chlorophyl free D8?!?
Awesome thank you