That was me, i just didnt remove the ice when i was done. It worked great til, i woke up the next day
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And my wife says I dont remember things.
Lol
I retain bits and pieces of revenant info like any guy does. Birthdates dont fall into that catagory.
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Im lucky my sister, wife and daughter’s b-days are all in the same week so i cant miss.
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definitely dont have the coldest water here, also on 2nd floor so needs to be pumped 3 floors before i get it, what was the water temp out of your tap.
However its not massive amounts of etho i need to remove. max 5-10liters each batch, since im using kief or buying pre made cbd crude or isolate to make d8.
Found this pump Amazon.co.uk Shopping Basket
Seems like the same one you use after looking closely @square_root_pharms diffrent price point tho auch… i need it in 220V
If the chiller has enough water flow but not enough cooling capacity I don’t think this is a hard problem to mediate in the short term. You can cut the line flowing from the cooler to the rotovac and add in a copper or stainless coil. Drop the coil in a foam bucket or cooler of ice slush and see how you do. If still not enough cooling then replace water in cooler with glycol and replace water slush with dry ice and isopropyl alcohol or ethanol. That will likely get you by for awhile until your hempire is big enough to buy a more capable chiller. Can then use the current one for short path distillation or precooling.
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@EVFarm definitely would be an easy fix, properly the easiest. not having the chiller fluid yet that would be a cost tho if it didnt worked properly still.
Edit: to avoid more confusion, what glycol/water % mix should i use? - will properly take this route.
About 72% glycol will get you to -52 degrees or so freezing point for that solution. I would also recommend you add some dye in case you get some condenser coil leak you will detect it. Starting to cool a hot condenser coil or heating a cold one gives a risk of breaking or leaks.
check, already got food dye on hand.
easiest would be to try and run it with straight water if you guys dont think it will freeze up and hurt anything anywhere. I believe the water would freeze up if the heat from the roto bath isnt there to make up for the cold.
Would get a real headache tho if this wont work properly, kicking that counterweight to the curb and using Bucket/ice/pump seems like a safe choice also lol.
Getting de-railed of my plans beats me undecisive. not that technical and spend lot of time on each thing.
Water in the cooler would work with an ice bucket. I’m not sure about water in the cooler with dry ice I think water would freeze and block your lines. Glycol I think is easy to get. Propylene glycol is $30 a gallon from Walmart food grade.
im in europe so always a hassle to get things, propylene glycol pharma grade isnt hard to get tho, was just reading on pharma grade and general use thats how quickly i can get confused hehe.
in theory it should work, and the pump should in theory also be more than enough with 20liters pr min.
Thanks alot EV and Demon always chippin in.
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There are lots of subtleties to Rotary evaporation though which can influence the process including the need for cooling.
If you carefully increase the bath temperature slowly you will get condensation and solvent recovery. If you slowly increase the temperature of the bath you will get more solvent recovery until you overwhelm your cooling then you will get less solvent recovery, more vapor loss and contaminate your pump. As you get more vapor not condensing you can lose some vacuum so the boiling point of your solvent goes up then you get more solvent recovery at the same cooling capacity, less vapor loss and better vacuum then more vaporization to then overwhelm your cooler then start the cycle again. You should look for and avoid getting to these oscillations that mark the edge of your coolers capacity. So under these conditions you can still use your same cooling system but may have to limit recovery rate by controlling heating bath temperature. Then there are the effects of rotation speed and vacuum level. So many wonderful variables to optimize.
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What’s the temperature of the distillation area you are operating the chiller in. Or maybe you have a faulty temperature probe or sensing unit.
An air cooled chiller gets exponentially weaker in the lower temp range. It’s like buying a car with a top speed of 110 mph then assuming it’s going to go 110 mph uphill.
The real question is why is -10 important? If you are recovering ethanol you could be condensing effectively all the way up to like 25c by not having as deep of vacuum and a hotter bath. Unless you need to keep your bath temp low I don’t think you have a problem. Let the load balance and keep it going.
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