Winterization


#42

That’s exactly what I was thinking. I’ve purposely introduced moisture into extracts to see what it would do, and this definitely resembles what I saw!


#43

I think it is water as well. I run my rotovap @ 60 torr, and the water bath @ 53C, but it seems I did not let it run long enough.


#44

For sub-critical I just started to use 1200PSI @ 100F-115F. But I haven’t had much time to mess around with the machine since, I started experimenting with my short path.

Would you suggest I short path the distillate or adjust my winterization to achieve clearer results?


#45

use zeolite molecular sieves during ur extraction. if you got a small pressure vessel you could do your adsorptive filtrations and this together before you depressurize.


#46

If you are using Ethanol, the dark is Chlorophyll and winterizing does little to remove it.


#47

Thanks man, I will look into this. I am currently running a 20L eden.


#48

Yeah, I see that color a lot from water.


#49

do you decarb or oven dry ur starting material?


#50

The starting material is pretty dry when I get to it, and I do not really decarb before winterization.


#51

even when i dont decarb i oven dry at 200 f for ~25 min either immediately before extraction or done then stored in airtight container. I started doing that cause i noticed how much water I was extracting. water also becomes acidic when under pressure with co2. so u can have heat and acidic conditions which is basically what a citric acid degumming is. the lipids break down and can form weird things. maybe doing a proper degumming after will separate whatever it is


#52

Would you suggest that I re-winterize the dark oil, and see if I can remove more waxes with aluminum oxide?

My end goal is to lighten the oil so it can be put in some vape pens, without cutting the oil.


#53

If I had that dark crude the first thing I would do is boil it at just simmering temps for an hour with rubbing alcohol at 70/30 iso to water ratio (available at my corner market). I would plan to keep topping up the rubbing alcohol over that time. Then let all the alcohol boil off, freeze until water can be poured off, then run it through alumina with rubbing alcohol 70/30 iso to water (off the shelf).

You will pull significant gunk but you have to give it time to “cook” in the boil which will be under 100C. It swells things and grabs tons of green. Just do not pour through column hot. Cutting the rubbing alcohol to 50/50 iso to water will help. A thick green and gunky layer will be held up on top of the alumina. If the column loads up from the gunk on top I just use a stir rod to break up the layer a bit on top. It can get pretty thick.


#54

other then you could try hot activated carbon or cbleach/fullers earth scrub, both are used in many different decoloration processes


#55

I tried, AC hot, and Fuller earth, which did remove the dark color, but made the oil kind of gunky after I rotovaped the 200 proof ethanol, like the picture that was posted earlier.


#56

You could have fines of activated carbon in your extract, how did you filter?


#57

I filtered with a 2.4 micron filter, and with a damascus earth cake.


#58

Ok, probably no fines DE does a pretty good job. The peanut butter look is from water, evaporate a sample and see how it looks.


#59

how ru purging? (probably not related but you havent mentioned yet and none looked fully purged) and maybe a hexane/saline wash before activated carbon/cbleach. if none of that works ive read alot about acid activated sepiolite recently but never tried it myself. but that color seem similar to carotenoids and they are the only thing I can think of that would be that color and in co2 oil made like your saying.



#60

Going to try that today, will post results.


#61

Never did a hexane/saline wash before, nor using a column of any sort.