Using bleaching earth with wiped film distillation

Everyone knows the typical method for making water clear on SPD; “just put bleaching earth in the boiling flask and distill away!” There can be some finesse on the isomerization side, but the procedure itself is easy.

Obviously, this is not a technique that is going to work well when running wiped film. I have seen a few procedures for doing it, but they haven’t given me results that look much different from unbleached. The procedures I was given were:

If you want to make delta 8: Add 10% bleaching earth to crude in a boiling flask, heat for 1 hour at 140C, then cool down, mix 1:1 with heptane, filter through celite, rotavap, and distill.

If you want to keep original profile: Mix 1:1 with heptane before adding bleaching earth, and only heat to 80C, for 1 hour. Filter through celite, rotavap, and distill.

Can’t say i’ve noticed much of a difference though. Has anyone used these wiped film procedures with success?


The method of isomerization is a redox reaction between the oil and acidic clay. This means that in order to do the method on a WFE, where absorbents cannot be used during distillation, you should reflux the oil in clay prior to distillation.

An example of this would be boiling the oil with a high concentration of clay (20% or more by oil weight) for a period of time, then filter and distill on WFE. You’re going to want to use lab potency testing to find out how effective your conversion rate is and adjust parameters from there (more clay, longer boil, higher temp, etc).


Made in a VTA Wiper boiled with 20% c-Bleach on a mag stirrer for 2 hours before redistillation


I had has excellent results recently converting to Delta-8 with a similar method. Though it did not look “water clear”, just a pretty bright yellow. What is the appearance of yours?


This was my first attempt and obviously I need to adjust some parameters for a full conversion, but i was happy to see results. My product was not water clear and only slightly lighter then my normal carbon scrubbed delta 9.


D8 is the most stable form of THC so you can play with higher initial T41(cbleach) ratios without too much concern. Getting in the 80% conversion range first try would be tits.

D10 conversion is something to look for, but from what I understand there is a very very different source of D10 isomerization which has nothing to do with absorbents.


I spoke with an organic chemist (toxicologist more specifically) and was trying to ask why d8 is more stable. I’ve read in literature that it is, but was seeing if there was any intuition behind it.

Just looking at d9 and d8, there isn’t really a reason other than ring strain he could think of. I’d be really interested in seeing how much more stable it is. He suggested comparing heats of reduction for the double bond.

Also, in my head wouldn’t d10 be the most stable? It isn’t created that often so it makes me question that train of thought, but the d10 would have more resonance.


Ring strain makes sense as D8 is lower energy. Most of the research I’ve read about D8 from the 60s & 70s just mentions its low energy state and stability.

From what I understand, the current theory on D10 is environmental pollutants on the biomass before distillation causing a specific isomerization.


you don’t happen to have a reference for that do you?

wouldn’t one then expect low potency distillate (isomerized from d9 to d10) to routinely fail pesticide analysis?

The contaminant I’m talking about is Phoschek fire retardant. Specifically in the western outdoor scene.


Wow!! Environmental pollutant indeed.

And of course (almost?) nobody is actually looking for that. Certainly not state mandated anywhere I’ve looked (OR, WA, CA)

I would assume one would have to ask the lab explicitly to check for that.

Has this been published?

It’s a theory floating around but it would make a strong research topic, “Effects of fire retardant on cannabis oil processed from outdoor cannabis grown near forest fire prone areas”

Zack from Pinnacle brought the concept to me.