Was the probe just fucked up?
Prolly but I said fux it and returned it for the pen. I ordered the Milwaukee. FUCK BLUELAB right in the butt.
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Are you using this as just a foliar spray in the RDWC?
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Lmao. Well a toast probe will def do it.
I think rdwc is like gambling, so many moving parts. I’ve developed some truly neurotic tendencies of double and triple checking my stuff. One little mistake and you’ve lost your ass… that’s also indoor farming in a nut shell
we all get our thrills from somewhere. Haha
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Yes. It’s not compatible with the UC roots
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In the picture there are at least 3 leaves with a calcium deficiency then there is at least 1 leaf with nitogren claw. The green of the healthy leaves doesnt look too dark nor is there tip burn so I dont think the EC is too high. The new growth is a bit yellow and that lower leaf pale looking due to lack of calcium
The LED might be too intense if you can dim it to 50% or raise it to lessen the intensity.
The PH to me seems like it is off or there is nutrient uptake issues. Try mixing up your fresh res at 5.5 then letting it swing to 6. I dont know if this is advocated anymore but its what I used to do. Also is heavy stable enough to be used in DWC?
So much more info is needed to help with this but I know for sure that you need bleach and mycostop at those temps bare minimum
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The unit was a month old. Never let the probe dry. Historically I have all the issues with bluelab gear. I need change.
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Hey, I have a Milwaukee for sale
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Lol. Well I’ll stay on top of it. I’m currently using a blue lab ph doser and guardian monitor for each System. Shows me how they’re eating and double checks the equipment for me.
Like I said neurotic tendencies. lol
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I LOVE my hm-80. But I rarely ph anything. I already know what my ph is, and what products change ph.
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Man I could never do that. That’s great you never have to check ph. I consistently run the same inputs and profiles and yet I find myself constantly checking ppm and ph every feed. I like to track drifts. Plus everytime I try not too I end up in a type of situation I’m in r/n dealing with a bunch of issues. That’s so great your dialed in enough not to have to worry @Demontrich big thumbs up buddy!
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I have my setup on a Milwaukee ph dosing controller so it wouldn’t be the PH. Also nutrient lockout only happens when the PPM is high enough, my PPM is below 300. The plants literally just recovered from a calmag over feeding by someone I asked to help for the few days I was gone. Fed 50 gallons in a 20 gallon system. That being said the interveinal chlorosis I was seeing has been gone for a week and they’re getting progressively more wilted it seems.
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First I’ve heard lockout only happens at high ppm. Any studies on that @novacancy? I’d figure wrong ph would lockout anything available no matter the concentration.
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Man I love darlins net she gets me so open.
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Maybe I’m talking out of my ass then shit idk man this is literally my first grow. But I do know the PH has not gone below 5.6 or above 6. How could the PH be causing lockout? I’ve checked the PH against a blue PH meter I also have and they’re the same. I personally believe the over feeding I suffered caused a P,K excess which caused a dip in calmag but idk how long calmag deficiency symptoms hang around for.
Too low ph or high ph, both can cause lock-out.
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Over-feeding would cause burnt leaf tips. I dont see any of that in your pics.
“Rust” looking spots most of the time indicates the need for more cal-mag.
I’m still betting on lock-out due to improper ph
See the pic I provided, has a small leaf tip burn. That’s what I’m referring too.
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So when your hydroton is releasing alkaline dust into your system it’s causing your ph to rise, then your auto adjusting ph doser is adding in phosphoric acid to correct it. This could be adding in a lot of K causing issue. Could be wrong again just a guess, are you using a lot of ph down?
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