After we winterize, Cbleach, Brine Wash (4,9,7 pHs) and chromo we are left with a cranberry juice colored very transparent Heptane with Oleoresin dissolved in it. Goes a little orange. This is just before Rotovaping.
What can be done to further remediate the color and remove the red? Are the reds created by Iron or carotenoids or both or something else.
Is there any other fuller’s earth or process that can get the red out?
Help1
Is there any trace at all of Ethyl Acetate in there?
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4:1 Heptane to Oleoresin
Sorry, Filtration.
Thanks
Meant more of magsil
Fwiw i personally like the oil dilution a little lower like 1.5 solvent to oil
1 part heptane to 5 parts oleoresin? Hard to get through chromo column at that concentration?
Wish I could help. All of mine gets that red sort of hue when it is really cleaned up but still in solvent as a rule but not typically orange like that. I have seen Ethyl Acetate turn brown boiling flask material orange in a matter of minutes left out which is why I asked. It seems like leaving it is EA will alter the stuff that way a bit over time.
Thank you
Our general SOP post Ethanol extraction and winterization is:
- Dissolve Oleoresin in Heptane 4:1 heptane to Oleoresin. Material turns red right here.
- CBleach - wet process
- Brine wash pH 4,9,6
- Run through Chromo column packed with magsil 1 kg magsil to each 2 kg of oleoresin (per Future4200 SOP). Starts out yellow, goes to orange red. I think the Orange is due to the reds mixing with the yellow,
- Rotovape
- Shortpath
Picture of chromo column after running Heptane rinse through to collect stuck oleoresin. Lots of color stuck in magsil.
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Beads at top are Magnesium Silicate and used to keep top of powder flat when adding material
I second this notion
After a distillation, is the color an issue at all?
We are running testing before and after magsil to see exactly what it takes out. I suspect that the Brine washes and carbon in the CBleach take everything out. I am also doing pesticide testing before and after brine washes and CBleach. The crude pesticide test results along with the individual step tests should tell us what comes out when. Using the full SOP we are consistently testing 100% ND in California, which now has the most stringent controls in place.
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Wow. So nothing is possible.
We are in California and the requirements are quite hard. We have had great success in remediation. Yes it is expensive to run so many tests. I is more expensive to run useless processes. We are hoping to be able to zoom in on which steps actually remediate pesticides. Why will I “fail for the most part” by checking results at each step?
Also I don’t get your BBQ sauce statement at all…
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Generally the red stays put in my boiling flask unless I crank the heat up and spin the stir bar fast. This is a good first run technique but it churns stuff up as a trade to get all the cannabinoid out of the gunk.
Really though when it is clear as that photo in solvent given the saturation mentioned frankly that stuff looks like what I wish mine did at that stage. Mine is ruby red but then again I do not use Cbleach or carbon until just this run and then only in the distillation pot and not before and It is new to me. The package says it is carbon from American hardwoods.
Good. I don’t want any of that illegal immigrant wood carbon plus it is labeled organic. Not that inorganic carbon…
I love marketing labels. 
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Your are saying it is bunk. To an extent, I agree. However, it is efficient at removing myclo, which seems to be the highest concentration of pests in most oil.
Do you feel the MagSil step is still useful at all? What processes are worth doing and not doing, in your opinion?
I personally am not using MagSil at the moment but would like to in order to lighten up my material.
What are the uses for it, if not pesticide remediation? And what is actually going on in the column?
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