It’s barbed. The tubing attaches directly.
Cap the vac port on the SPD heads it’s not really needed.
It’s the probe in the boiling flask. What I’ve seen here is that if you use a PID or temp controller then you want that thermocouple between the glass and mantle. This way you don’t overshoot your temps and overbook your mother liquor
Crankcase breather it looks like
Imagine plugging an engine crankcase. It might run quieter but at risk of some serious damage
from what ive read. the automatic ballast only open on start up and shut off. Thats why i didnt play it no mind. I must have read the instruction manual 100x before deciding to just leave it.
@square_root_pharms To clarify on 3) So with my setup (Variac), I will want to put the probe in the flask through the second neck AND use the one between the flask and mantle? To seal the thermocouple, have you found a bunch of PTFE tape to work?
@Killa12345 thanks for the response. Considering doing a YouTube live stream of my first run!
Thanks for the input guys!
Some good info here on gas ballast systems used on these rotary vane pumps.
Life tip here, hoses that are pressed onto glass barbs are best slit with a razorblade for removal. Don’t attempt to pull the hose off, the barb usually breaks.
Ditch the probe in the flask and take thermcouple readings from the surface of the heater if using pid controll. I see a variac on the table too, you don’t need a probe for that one just a thermometer.
@Soxhlet thanks for the tip! Makes sense.
I don’t have a pid, just the variac and thermocouple thermometer (the display in the picture is just the stirring plate)… so I will use the second neck on the boiling flask with the thermocouple thermometer inserted, if I understand your comment.
Sorry to be so obtuse about this little detail and thanks again for everyone’s help. I owe you all a beer or a dab
Same here but in a 500ml to 1000ml. I don’t process enough to go bigger right now.
I am using this same pump, found it on ebay for cheap. the pictures you show and the filter at the back is for the automatic gas ballast. I have been using cheap amazon Black gold pump oil and pulling 50 microns.
I have removed the filter and plugged the hole, it is quieter but I did not see any improvement or loss.
If you probably used real oil you could probably pull lower. For me. I had one of these pumps constantly pulling 10 microns with ultra 19 oil. Changed to ultra 20. Got to 6 microns. While only 4 microns. That 40%. And the way vacuum works. The numbers are exponential so it’s a lot more than 40%.
I will get better oil eventually, I am a limited income, and have to play cheap. I have a lot of other needs to get before I change to better. By reading some of your posts, We are so much alike on things it is crazy.
It’s funny how most of us here are alike. The more I talk to people threw DM; I realize most of us are extremely similar. Seems like most of us are cut from the same cloth. Just made into different garments. Lol.
50 microns on these pumps are considered outta spec and should be rebuilt.
Hey guys, I’m looking for a cap to plug the vacuum gauge port on the condenser. The caps that I have been finding are not suitable for high temp. This item (https://chemglass.com/caps-with-aperture-gl-threads-high-temperature) is what I’m looking for, but without the aperture. Does anyone know where I can find a high temp. screw cap that won’t melt?
Might not need a high temp cap if its at the condenser
Do You time your dabs?
I have enails. Before all my emails. Yes I bought an Apple Watch just to have a dab timer on my wrist!
Damn, I’ve never dabbed distillate, but I would think it would taste ok??? Am I wrong?
Depending the source. My dispensaries taste soooo bad. I think it’s the terps they add. Mine ain’t great either. I recently dabbed a members distillate and it was the best so far.
But no I’m not the hugest fan of dabbing distillate when I have so much terpy concentrates here at my disposal. Distillate has its place. Just not for dabbing
Beaker and wrench offer high temp gl connections for these temps.