In-Line Fats/Lipids/Waxes Remediation



No stall it just goes in between the tubes in the collection pot. There’s a valve on top and a valve on bottom you fill it up from the top all the way and then cracked the bottom valve this slowly feed the liquid into the collection pot making the baffles work better that the dewaxing tubes at -50 and or -90 c


Omg omg omg I appreciate you greatly!!!


What sort of flow rate do you put through it? It just whatever you got you put through all at once?


Only used it once will be at it fully this week so I’ll let you know supposedly u can dump quite a bit before it needs to be changed/cleaned. It does make the flow rate at lot slower than w/o it. And you must do a vapor assist to push it all out or else you gonna have hella liquid trapped . If this works well it will be amazing news. I Want to put these baffles in the collection pot to speed up recovery. Really I want to feed the liquid from the tubes into a really hot tube and shell heat exchanger on top of the collection than put a pig tail at the end of the short dip tube on the lid with these baffles inside the pot to create the ultimate maximization of surface area to substantially increase recovery rate.


“While the bleaching process appears to be a simple mixing of adsorbent and oil followed by filtration, the chemical and physical reactions occurring are complex and greatly reliant on process variables (i.e. moisture levels, temperature, contact time, and vacuum), oil quality entering the bleacher, the amount and characteristics of the adsorbent and the type of equipment employed. The success or efficiency of the bleaching operation is interdependent on the effectiveness of upstream processes where contaminants that have the potential to interfere with the bleaching mechanisms should be removed.”

Water content in the clay is an overlooked variable in the bleching process everyone is using.


Its been brought up a long time ago that the clay is more effective if it is baked/dehydrated before use in the crc or clear bho scram threads


Bleached fats…adsorbents arent pulling them…they need to be dewaxed out


Thats true when your talking about color removal. Its been pretty well demonstrated that for pigment removal you want the bleaching clay to be dry. But im more wondering how increased moisture levels will affect the filter cake’s ability to retain lipids.

I guess its confusing when i say “bleaching process” but im not talking about color removal. I was just referring to the use of bleaching clay in my last post.


I noticed when the clay was super saturated it becomes clumpy, same with celite.
Silica 60 and magnesol stay sandy


b80 does the same


What is considered a monstrous amount of solvent?

I’ve religiously separate column dewaxed for 2 hours at around -78 and usually pull good amounts of wax, keep all the waste filters etc for distillate but never thought we would be losing large amounts of thca in this process. I might try winterizing all the product and crashing it out in etoh or heptane.

Are there any guidelines or information available for dewax times and temps to avoid thca loss?


You will always drop some THCa out if you’re dewaxing with butane. If you’d like to avoid this you can dewaxing in ethanol for less loss. I’d say the standard 10:1 solvent:material is sufficiently monstrous, but won’t fuck the problem.


I was told by @Otscc …at least I think it was him, I smoke a lot, don’t we all

That running DI slurry solvent w nitro push over froze material your not gonna take fats…

Maybe that’s why they run like that without a 2nd stage?


I dont run a dewax column, but i dont nitro assist either.


Then just let it build to couple psi and inject

After reading their sops for diamonds I got off the coil and just chilled tank to zero… Pull out let build to 10psi Ineject… It’s still balls cold

Nitro so much easier though, my tank never left the slurry! Through injection to recover

If waxes are picked up this way has to be super minimal but my product says different w easy pour terps, clear stones


My tank attaches directly to my material column via 2 1.5 ball valves.

I have to take my tank out flip it up side down and attach it to the column. Barely time for tane to warm up much


I’ve never seen this why is it hooked up like that… No line?

Seems rather top heavy


My system is very old. 2nd gen sub zero


Ya they dont make em like this any more. It took some creative thinking to change how to add a dewax column. Its about 3k to retro fit


I bet we could do for way cheaper w @Killa12345

Tank, line , different hook plate on top
, how big is that tank? Couldn’t be that much at all
Room left to get nitro $200 and$20 to refill :wink: