icarus 5lb true dewax help

Hello, I just bought an Icarus 5lb true dewax closed loop system. I was just wondering what the nitrogen support is for and how I would use it. Also, could anyone give me a step by step on how to run a closed loop system with active recovery. Thanks in advance :slight_smile:


Following along as I’m interested in picking up one of the Icarus systems!

The nit oven is to push your solvent into you dewax columns. You will how ro burp it from you tank. Did they not give you any introduction or any grneral on how to operate there susyems

I just got the little icarus 2-5 lb ours runs passive not active so I can’t help you there however the equipment comes with thorough instructions I suggest starting there then referring back her with the specific questions you come up with after assembling and testing the unit.
The nitrogen is to pressure test, and mainly as an assist to the dewax column because you will have that cryo cold and the solvent will have negative pressure so to push to collection you need to add 25 psi nitrogen through the manifold to the nitrogen assist port on top of the dewax column that pushed product to collection, then on to recovery.
It took a 12 hour day to disassemble clean with acetone, then iso alcohol then distilled water till no more black comes off, then re assemble, pressure test then fill with 18.9 lbs solvent to recovery tank, then distill the butane and finally run once for the first time… all in all this thing is a beast and once I get a few more rounds done with it I think it’s gonna be rad.
Edit: you will need a uhp (ultra high purity) grade nitrogen tank and a regulator.


We use a food grade n2, a stainless steel regulator is a nice touch.
according to our gas company the ultra high purity n2 comes from the same tank as the food grade, Its just that it comes with paperwork.
In addition when they fill high purity tanks they do not remove the valve to inspect the tank interior.


Ahh, okay I’ll keep that in mind next fill, is it cheaper or more expensive?
The loop comes with a carbon recovery tank, I was told to upgrade to stainless asap because the insides decay.

This might help you understand how to run active recovery using the trs21

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yeah, stainless solvent tanks are really the way to go. the food grade n2 is cheaper.


BestValueVacs Icarus Operating Manual 2 - 5 LB.pdf (3.9 MB)

I was able to email support and they sent a copy of the manual in docx format but I converted to pdf to upload here.

I’ve also found a great source of info and schematics over at terppextractors.com .


I found that reading the manuals from several different companies helps get a broader understanding of how to run these machines well.


how much is the regulator for the nitrogen?any suggestions? Also I’m assuming I’m gonna need nitrogen even if I have active recovery?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382437801418 get something like this.

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What do you guys usually yield off of high grade trim?

Only if you’re not using a sieve correctly. A stainless tank is better, because you can have multiple vapor ports for adding and removing vapors. But, that carbon tank is fine as long as you don’t allow moisture in there and you regularly maintain it. The nitro is to push through the filter stacks. If you also have an empty tank or not, but on dry ice for while. Open recovery when you are pushing through the filters. The vacuum pressure will assist you with the liquid passing the filters easier.


I’m surprised at the detailed instructions. Kinda impressed they mention not to boil off terpenes. But, even though we shOuLdN’t uSe NitRo because it’s an extremely small molecule and can create a leak we didn’t have, anyway. I still do.


For some reason I couldn’t get the butane to transfer from the dewaxing chamber to the collection pot. I even used 25psi of nitrogen to help it transfer. I know my dewaxing chamber was colder than the collection pot and also the filters were absolutely caked with fats and lipids. Do I need to get the collection pot colder? More nitrogen? Bigger filters?

Thanks in advance for the help

Try stageing your filtration, that will stop the clogging.


@Soxhlet could you explain further? What should I do? And do you think the problem is the temperature difference or more of the clogging of the filtration

the low temp is desirable, stage a few filters if you can.

this is the general idea, staged filtration allows your filters to work for longer before clogging.
You might stage “fast” filter papers over some “slow” ones.


So we have had to bump the nitrogen up to 50 to pass the dewaxer, we only used coffee filters, the top got caked the bottom was clean, gotta get the collection cold as possible, then watch the collection pot psi if it goes above 0 you gotta vent it to get the last, once you get Nothin but nitrogen, vent that then recover.

The reducer to the 2 inch elbow on the bottom of the dewax, what size screen is in there? Mine had a 2500mesh 5mic in it and it got super clogged the first run since we didn’t have more than coffee filters, so the plan is to put 15-20 Mic filter paper on top, 10 on bottom then that 5 Mic screen between all the ball bearings in the reducer and the 2 inch elbow, hopefully that prevents clogging,

With the 150 mesh screen and double stacked coffee filters it flows to the honey pot in about 10 minutes, when that 5 Mic got plugged it took 3 hours to push it all out to the honeypot.

Oh also pay attention to the c rings For the filter plates they are concave like the plates, if you accidentally put them in upside down they don’t hold the paper, sounds like you got it right the first time, now just gotta spread the filtration prevent the clogs…
Did your dewaxer come with the sight glass on top cuz mine doesn’t have one but is supposed to


If you guys have available volume, I like to add stainless steel pot scrubbers in my dewaxing column to prevent the paper filters from clogging. I also like to run staged filter plates with fast, fast then slow paper with 3 individual filter plates.