How to get crude up to 80% with just pre procesding. (Subzero extracted ethanol crude)
are you asking a question or making a statement?
Feel like its a statement
We are all waiting for the tek, please elaborate
For sure a question
THERES GOING TO BE AN ETHANOL BOOM SOON! LOL
ACHIEVING QUALITY ETHANOL EXTRACT IS FAIRLY SIMPLE. IN MY EXPERIENCE KEEPING THE ETHANOL UNDER ATLEAST -45C DURING EXTRACTION IS CRUCIAL(COLDER THE BETTER)…SOME PEOPLE DO A 10-15 MINUTE SOAK THEN FILTER THROUGH 1 MICRON FILTERS SOME PEOPLE LOAD JACKETED COLUMNS WITH THE MATERIAL ALREADY FROZEN AND FLUSH THE COLD ETHANOL THROUGH THE MATERIAL THEN ROTO AND FINISH OFF IN THE VAC OVEN.
I PREFER THE SOAK METHOD FOR SMALLER BATCHES + ITS CHEAP AND THE PREP IS QUICK AND AS EASY AS FREEZING ETHANOL AND MATERIAL OVER NIGHT. FROM THERE YOU->SOAK->FILTER->ROTO->FINISH IN VAC OVEN
OBVIOUSLY THE FRESHER THE MATERIAL THE BETTER THE COLOR. ALSO MAKE SURE YOUR PLANT MATERIAL IS DRY SO YOU DON’T STRIP UNWANTED WATER SOLUBLES AND ALSO RE-DISTILL YOUR ETHANOL AT LOW TEMPS BEFORE EXTRACTION TO MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ETHANOL/H20 AZETROPE.
bottom is 1st wash 34g from 224g flower. top is 2nd wash from same flower no dewax
sorry for the caps
Leave 30% of it in the biomass?
No seriously. If you want 100% of the cannabinoids, your crude is going to be closer to 50%. If you want your crude to be 80%, it’s not just ballast you have to abandon.
Have you looked at @TheLostBiologist’s write up? 75% cannabinoids is doable…
Thru pre processing there should be a way to get to the percentage. You extract then carbon scrub etc I just don’t know the correct way
if it happens after extraction, it’s POST processing.
unless it’s prep for distillate.
have you looked at TheLostBiologist Bucket and Post Processing Tek for Golden Extract or not?
who is telling you it’s 80%? Do you have In House analytics?
what’s the plan after you post process to achieve 80%?
70 & 65% cannabinoids at a guess. Do you have test results?
have you looked @TheLostBiologist’s write up?
your post, while factual, does not address OP’s question & it’s really hard to read too…(which might be why I’m bitching).
ok, I was wrong. your post is not factually correct. just really hard to read.
distilling cold will do absolutely nothing for avoiding the ethanol/water azeotrope.
@Cyclopath is correct. You cannot distill ethanol beyond 95% purity (190 proof). That is basically the definition of an azeotrope. The only way you would be able to separate water from ethanol using evaporation would be to use a substance that also forms an azeotrope with water but boils at a lower temperature than the ethanol/water azeotrope. Then all of your water would leave prior to ethanol evaporation. The problem there is that most of the chemicals that will do this are distinctly insalubrious and usually pretty hazardous, such as tolunene. Your only other option for removing water from ethanol are 3A molecular sieves and time.
RE DISTILL. meaning if you dont start with 190 proof ( because you reuse your ethanol) then distill it before you REUSE it again making sure there is no excess water… again talking about running ALREADY USED ETHANOL. EXPOSED TO WATER (which would drop the proof)…to get it back to 190…you would have to redistill at a low enough temperature to leave the excess water in the ethanol behind…
ALSO if your material isnt dry and after you roto the ethanol back…the water from the nugs will now be in the ethanol…to bring it back to proof and not dumb your ethanol down…be sure to redistill your ethanol…maybe its hard to read because of caps? who knows.
while I agree with much of that, and it’s much easier to read, a reflux still is the right tool to re-proof, and it doesn’t get you past the azeotrope.
You can also run your alcohol they a molecular sieve, it will help get some or a lot of the h2o out. If you also run a cls as an added bonus you wash all the dust off, then just roto you etho like described above. Just my 2 cents
nobody is trying to get rid of the azetrope. just re-proofing to 190. sorry my writing was to literal.
add water to 190 proof ethanol…and roto below 35c and tell me you dont have water left in the roto ball?
all i was saying is that ethanol likes water so before you reuse your ethanol get it back to proof or you will…end up pulling over unwanted water soluble that make your extract taste like garbage.
i forgot you have to dot your i’s and cross your t’s on here or people will pick apart anything and everything.
…in order to maintain a high level of accuracy…for everybody’s benefit
the rotovap is NOT the tool for re-proofing.
do you use a proofing gauge.
Dude, I distill/redistill ethanol at 165F all the time and get 95.6%+ ABV. Easiest and safest option to break that azeo is to use sieves. And yes, there are people who want to use 200 proof in their extractions.
yes use a proof guage have gotten to 195 proof using the rotovap. how is the roto not suitable?
@coppertop if your ethanol isnt exposed to excess moisture you don’t have to worry about your proof changing…this is talking about if you use ethanol that is exposed to moisture and that is less then 190 proof… here at my lab we have to constantly reproof our ethanol because ( I order 50 gallons at a time) i use it to winterize my CO2 crude which has alot of excess moisture…
you guys can say whatever or however you do it but this is what i do and i know it works and has been working for 5 years now…proof is in the pudding.