Hey I wanted to chime in here because I’m dealing with similar issue. I’m getting perfect color in the head, but then maybe 20 minutes into body I’ll start bringing the red over.
I winterized in a regular chest freezer 3 times and carbon/de scrubbed it as well.
Edit: I wanted to add that it looks like the oil dropping down the cow looks fine. It even forms a layer of yellow color on top of the red until it melts into the rest of the ball flask. This is oxidation?
When you get your volitiles off your vaccum level will improve, lower your mantle temp slightly at that point. Closely monitor your head thermometer and use your data logger to look at the data trends in your run. You may just need to cut your fraction and move on.
So, I’m not using any bleaching media. I did try cbleach before, but it didn’t yield the results I wanted and gave me issues with silica getting through the filter. I got degumming enzym, but due to some restrictions and being told to use it differently for what the instructions say, I haven’t got a sep funnel or heptane yet. So it’s just been winterized. I also ran a frankenstein setup this time, cause I’m waiting for my lab stands to get here so i can setup the “laminar” path. So this run was also highly experimental, using only one head. My goal with this is getting the best first pass I can. The best test said 94% noids, with 90% thc. I haven’t put it in a cartridge yet. So the color might be better than expected. I’m using two pumps, one 12 cfm for volatiles and 5.3 cfm welch pro8 for the main. I also ran it at 205 c, cause I wasn’t hitting main at lower temps and i think i was staying at 155 on the mantle to long before moving on. Vac level was around 325, when i hit main 3 hours into the run. I also used the summit key in the first pass too, so i was pretty much renegading this run, not following procedure at all. It doesn’t smell much tho, so that was good. Again, i haven’t even done 10 runs yet. So I’m very much still learning the basics.
I’m aiming to copy breaking dabs hot condenser sop in the end to force the red pass the flask, but without the right setup the reds condense and drop into the flask.
I would argue to say that the “reds” are a higher boiling point than the lighter “yellow” ones. Your condenser may be a touch too hot allowing the “good” cannabinoids to pass without condensing.
I usually find the color will darken toward the end of the main body. My “reds” come off at the end of my main body. What is your head thermometer temp in the main body? Mine is usually around 160c at the head thermometer when I rotate the cow for the next fraction.
I’m using open source steel 2l with the welch duoseal. I’m having all sorts of issues with vacuum and temp control.
i don’t get my body until mantel is 210c and my head temp is 200c.
do you have a decent vac gauge?
do you know how deep the pump will go when isolated?
how about your rig when empty?
if your pump goes lower than your empty rig, you need to find the leaks.
if your pump doesn’t hit 50 microns when isolated, you need to address the pump.
if you can’t tell 50microns from 500, you need a better gauge.
interwebs suggest that the ultimate vac on a Welch duoseal should be in the 0.1micron range. so if you can’t hit 10microns on the isolated pump, you probably want to invest in a rebuild.
Yeah, as i mentioned, this run was very experimental and i used the summit key instead of the temp probe, so i must confess I don’t know what temps my head was at. I’m starting to think I’m going to high on the mantle. I was mainly looking for the coiling to start before i switched cows. Due to me not thinking clearly about the hot condenser forcing things to condense in the cow, my main flask got contaminated and i had to switch the entire cow once I hit main around 205c on the mantle.
300microns is definitely too high.
the gauge is probably sufficient.
I’d start by isolating the pump and making sure it comes close to it’s rated 0.1micron.
controlling mantle temp with a probe that isn’t in contact with the mantle is also very problematic. sounds like it’s not even in the puddle at some points.
some mantles have an internal thermocouple as well, and if yours does, using it will be a definite improvement. which mantel do you have?
Got any leaks? Also like @cyclopath said, temp probe inside the flask isn’t the best. Look @Beaker 's sublimator, he positions the thermocouple between the glass and the mantle for more precise controll.
If you aren’t getting below 300 and you are getting red disty really soon, you may have a leak. Run your system, turn the lights down or darkish in the room and run a flashlight over every joint starting at the flask at the thermocouple and make your way to the collection flask or cold trap. You should see vapors flowing in the spd if it’s leaking. What grease are you using for your joints? Unfortunately buying cheap spd equipment will usually come to haunt you. Try goldleaf they are very reasonable and have quality glass
My previous response was to you. And yes, you may not be winterizing to a low enough temperature and that could definitely be hindering your final product
Good glass and a good pump are the things you can’t skimp on, and if you don’t have a gauge get one otherwise you have no idea what’s going on . Checking for leaks done with a fraction etc.
I’ll catch up to you guys in a minute. Should maybe not expect similar results then.