Oui chef it looks tasty- do elaborate though
Hmm i haven t you have link lazy to search 
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Theres a paper on it somewhere, this is just something I want to try with my homie
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Mind if I ask what paper this is from? Would love to read the whole thing
No clue
Damn, thanks anyways
I think it could be a useful tool, u just need to bring down ur condenser temp. Start at ur normal 160C then drop back 2C until u see the heads condense, then calibrate from there. I would “wire” the tubing so it goes thru the head condenser first then the jacketed swing arm, so that’s theres a lower temp going downhill, instead the other way around and shooting things past.
It changes ever run for me by about +/- 3C from run to run. And also changes slightly throughout the run
I take the boiling temp - vapor temp = delta T
Vapor temp - Delta T -5C = condenser temp.
Then calibrate from there.
My boiling temp (194) -vapor temp(181) is usually 13C or below
Then I like making these marks on my glass so my partner can adjust while im out and about
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Ive notice that if i wrap my condenser up to the drop down, i get distilate that nakes it oast. I run at 150-160c and no foil it fives the distilate a lil place to turn from vapor to liquid if thats a problem.
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Well, I guess I’m going to have to eat my hat here. Seems like you could very well be right about the temp being off. I have had 3/8 hose going from the heater and the head has 1/4, so I had to use silicon hose between them to get it to work. Now I finally got 1/4 fluoroelastomer hose to go between and removing the silicon and gls I noticed that the gl from the output, ie input to condenser, along with the silicone hose had in parts melted. The gl is supposed to withstand 180c. So it stands to reason that the temp has been over what I’ve assumed and thus not condensing things properly. I’m doing a run tomorrow and will check the temps. Needless to say it’s going to be lower.
@Thetetraguy
Thank you. That is sound advice, I’ll adhere to it the next time I try the swing arm. I’m going without it this next run.
Took temps with a heat gun and they were pretty much spot on. I did run it at 100c.
In the setup posted on top the temps where 100c in the condenser ?
Or the oilbath has a steady set temp ?
I took the temp reading in the oil bath.
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Well guess it all narows down to the jacket hope you solve this 
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I’m gonna try it out tomorrow again, I think. I’ll keep you guys posted. Gonna run it at 100c again.
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Aight. I’m over it. I’m selling the dual jacketed swing arm. It’s not for me. Other people use it successfully. I’m not one if them. Hit me up if you want to buy it. It’s been used once.
takes a man to know it s limits
( sure you would be able to crack it in time )
When something ain t broken don t fix it 
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Yeah, seriously. I don’t know what’s up with my addiction to changing shit all the time. It has to stop. I have learned a lot though. Good starting material, low and slow first pass. Lots of bentonite for the water solubles, add other powders to taste. Only thing I’m gonna do differently now is the methanol/hexane wash and degumming powder. Other than that it’s back to basic for me.
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It s a fact that all sop s prior to spd cost time money. And OIL
I have been in canna business for a while most money I ever made was on a good commercial product
Not the super quality product
So think well before you act
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Well, previous runs were all 95-98% with just bento and and t41. I need the bento to remove water solubles, even though it’s been having a rough time lately to completely remove them, tbh. Lower quality material. Gonna start degumming clay with methanol/ hexane wash with di water wash to get ph back. That should remove all the red. That’s prob gonna be the sop, might still use alumina in the filter process.
This is just what I personally want to do, so that’s mainly why.
Edit: pretty much over second passes too, except for tails. Why waste the time? Seriously? If you know what you’re doing one pass is all you need.
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