Heating delivery tank??

Hey guys so I’m pretty new to making BHO I’m running a 4” x 24” jacketed column 10” base with 6” spatter platter active recovery system… I was just curious on if it’s a bad move to place my delivery tank in a warm water bath when it starts to get more empty to help assist the butane toward my column…
Thanks for reading!

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Yes and no. Yes it will work but warm butane picks up more fats and undesirables.

As long as I’m properly managing the ice in my dewax column it shouldn’t be much of an issue though, right?

Just make your collection tank cold as possible and wait for there to be no more flow…

I just get the solvent tank up to no more than 20c if I need.
But I’m also a noob. I’ve heard of using another rank to push via a hot loop?? Maybe one of the regs can help me on my explanation.

Using a secondary auxiliary tank heated up to provide vapor pressure to your chilled tank at a lower pressure to push. Its not cheap, but works well.

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What temp are we talking for the secondary tank?

Depends on what solvent you’re using and what pressure you’re aiming for

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Why not use a coil in a dry ice slurry between your tank and material column then you can keep your tank at room temp or heat if you want more pressure. The solvent will have pressure going into your material column and be chilled at the same time so you don’t pick up undesirables (chlorophyll, water, waxes ect…)

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Wont that make it harder to flow thru material to collection??

Not at all because you will have the back pressure from the solvent tank. I extract at around 50-70 psi (70/30 butane/propane) with this method with zero flow issues.

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Having your main tank chilled lowers the pressure, making it easier to pump back into it.

Use a coil between your pump and solvent tank on dryice slurry to recover. Hell, I use regular ice with a coil for recovery and can get 3/4 lb per minute recovery with a CMEP-OL which is fast enough for me.

Sure, all kinds of methods. My main solvent tank sits almost in a vacuum, and is cold enough for chilled injection with an easy vapor push from auxiliary. Million ways to do this, that’s why these forums are crucial.

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Absolutely… If i had an extra solvent tank laying around I would probably be doing it your way.

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So I should be waiting for my gauge at the top of my column to reach higher than 30 psi before I try and release my ball valve in order to get more tane out of my material column

Are you doing one & done shatter shots or are you soaking & pulling crude this will help determine a better piece of advice ? & you’re doing an initial vac correct? @WaxNoob

I typically am blasting slabs of shatter I haven’t really tried to re run the material for crude but once and I did it without the dewax column… I maybe got 10 grams of some pretty dark crude grade bho… when re running material would using the dewax column be wise…?? The reason I did it without dry ice was just an experimental run and didn’t want to waste the money of dry ice cconsumed

I mean tbh the dewax is awesome but I wouldn’t re run the material with bho I would let it rest to gas off if I were to do anything & dispose of the already ran material. Unfortunately it’s not much but biomass unless you plan to wash it in a etho or other solvent to make a mother liquid for diamonds. (Making the best of whatcha got for liquid) lol. But yeah I mean if your a cls & doing shatter, start the system by doing a initial vac down & once you reach peak vacuum slowly throttle open so the tane follows the vacuum easily & you don’t blow seals. & once you start to notice slowing of tane coming through the line, you can “throttle” the butane from the tank by doing a initial recovery I would only do till you build say 10-18psi & then let her rip a bit more to see what you can do. Now keep in mind you can do this up to 3 times but you SERIOUSLY need cold solvent & material from the start. If you can put them in a deep freezer for hours before hand, a camping sleeping bag of something to accommodate the column & dry ice surrounding the column will chill it to great temp for you. Same for tane, if not put that puppy in a slurry. Depending on what setup you may be running as well & what mods you may have through it could also implicate the no need to use the dewax. But back to the initial recovery for more tane, you simply build a head of pressure on top of the cold butane which then by reaction forces the tane out the tank to follow the rest.

On a side note dewaxing honestly in my opinion all preference. Can still make just about every form of concentrates with it in, but distillate really cause you remove everything but the thc or Cbd or whichever you may be isolating.

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Reason it was dark with chlorophyll was due to the temp it was ran at.