Gods of Color, ANGRY!!!

Any help/comments on why is my color is persistent?

Did a test run to try and scrub color from first pass SPD distillate.

Filter: Hochstrom (Summit Tech) filter.
Top cake: 1" Activated Hardwood Carbon (CarbChem).
Base cake: 1" Sondergut Silikate Pulver (Summit Tech).
Solvent: 95% EtOH, 10:1.
Filter Papers: 1,2, & 3 (Summit Tech). #1 papers between cakes. pH 6 per strip (Precision Labs).
Distillate: Dewaxed not Degumed

The LEFT image is the PRE filter and the RIGHT is the post filter.

Is there a decision matrix out there that explains when to select what media and size VS. Situation. Just wondering…

It seems that the Carbon scrub was not very effective in comparison to what I see from AC scrubs on F2400 and other sites…

Frustrating

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Im here… ask

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Stuff on the right looks to be a shade lighter.

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@waxplug1, what’s the deal with platypus? :slight_smile:

I found this with Google:

The Bleaching Clays
Characterization, Acid Activation, and Bleaching Performance

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Did u scrub or did u just use it as a filter media?

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I poured through a vacuum assisted filter cake.

Re: scrub

Sorry I don’t understand that term versus filtration scrub, unless that means mixing 5%wt AC / wt Oleoresin in solution and letting it “soak” in the solvent/solute?
If yes… then no, i didn’t scrub. :slight_smile: Hahahahha!

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Maybe your source of ac was the issue try using other adsorbents…I do all my scrubbing really cold and it does look like it helped a lil but not too effective…maybe other adsorbents will work better than ac

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I believe the color reduction was just a loss of yield…ac grabs a lot other stuff grabs less and is more selective

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Is there an obvious choice or approach to decoloring to the educated? Or is it best to just systematically search media?

Well here’s an excerpt from the link you posted:

" Important bleaching or adsorption criteria are quantity of activated earth, dosage, time, mixing, temperature, and atmospheric pressure and vacuum [5]. The primary function of the bleaching process is to remove peroxides and secondary oxidation products. In addition pigments and any trace of gums and soaps from refining are removed [5]. The bleaching process is actually performed under steam/nitrogen blanket, vacuum, or in an open vessel. The vacuum provides advantages, like low temperature drying of oils, moisture removal from clay, and avoidance of contact with oxygen of the air [6]. This is because the activated clay may act as a catalyst for oxidation in the presence of oxygen at elevated temperatures. The resulting oxidation products lead to degeneration and short shelf life of the final products. Generally bleaching process is carried out at contact temperature in the range of 80–120°C and contact time ranging from 20–40 minutes under vacuum."

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You just don’t want to say what you use, huh? Haha

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Your color already looks splendid :man_shrugging:

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Clarification, That’s a 10:1 dilution, not cloudy, but too dark. And post filter seems insignificant in color remediation…

I found charcoal didn’t make as much a difference if not heated with media to filter. Summits s.o.p is to mix charcoal to 10:1 solution. Heat and filter over silicate, I wouldn’t excpect just filtering over room temp carbon would do anything for color.

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What your saying is counter intuitive to something that is accepted as a fact which is the notion that temperatures play a significant role in the effectiveness of the adsorption process, this is true no matter what adsorbent your using. Which is why when you read about the actual application of bleaching earth on an ndustrial scale such as in edible oil refinement they will typically mix the oil with bleaching earth and heat the mixture while mixing.

Your saying you don’t mix the clay with your butane/bho, you don’t do any kind of stirring or mixing to help the clay particles do their job and you also do your filtration at subzero temps. On top of that your getting more color reduction than people are getting by doing everything they can to increase efficiency of adsorption i.e. heating/stirring a solution of alcohol/bho/clay.
You’ve got to be lying about something.

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Whoa whoa whoa, please ditch the negativity… There are a lot of partial statements in the grand scheme of things, and any points of consideration are valued. I understand a novel of ‘prerecs’, are technically required before any statement, and I’ll definately post results of any process that works well.
I don’t mind wading thru info, and suggestions, and will gladly pay forward any improvement I get.
Let’s chill on neg talk and assumption por favor.

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Right. Sorry I should a hit him in the DM with that.

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Hahahahahahh! …or inquire WHY a cold scrub is getting a blessing from the God of Color… I think @anon42519203 says dryness is super ultra important… my AC (CarbChem) was fresh from the bucket sealed… maybe more too it…

Next step…
Running a 75C scrub with 5%wt AC to elim AC from the possible solutions, then onto other media… will post updated trial here in a few.

Using 1, 2, 3 filter papers from Summit… seem to be fast and great at keeping particles out of the filtered side. A def :+1: for the performance. In my short experience, performing exactly as advertised thru their Hock!

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Well I think my comment is out of place in the context of this thread, I should have posted it in https://future4200.com/t/very-clear-bho-shatter-definitely-scammed-warning-to-all-hash-lovers-and-makers/7046/41

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Try 90 c