Experiment time

So experiment will be ran as written below.

  1. Prep clean reactors by setting chiller to -30°f & recirculate thermal fluid through jacket.

  2. Add frozen bio mass to reactor via open lid( whole thing, don’t be scared prop it up).

  3. Lower lid & secure.

  4. Inject pre chilled -30 water to reactor via transfer pump.

  5. Turn Rpms to 45-50 for 15 minutes.

  6. Allow wash to settle for 30 minutes still under temperature & then use stainless steel 200-220um filter screen attached to bottom pour spout of reactor to hold back bio mass & drain lower micron heads with little to no particulate for first wash, then refill & let her spin if additional washes are of desire.

  7. Filter hash & rinse thoroughly of fine particulate & continue freeze drying process or alternative drying methods.

If you’ve ran in a reactor hash in a reactor what were your experiences?

If you’re thinking about it & have input & want to give this a shot & wanna share your findings here also kudos to all!

I’ll be giving this a go soon as well, I have a reactor sitting and a brand new chiller ready to get that thing as cold as I want to. Pictures & hash photos to come!

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Is this a salt water solution? -30 water?

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Doesn’t have to be. I mean we both know what happens when water is prolonged to cold :joy: fucking thing was heavy.

But with the constant motion from the reactor & not being at complete freezing point I do expect some build up of course as it would be approaching freezing point, but also creating heat due to motion so in theory not needing ice due to vortex of paddles & could even change paddles if these aren’t suitable to liking of quality coming out as well, one should be able to achieve the temperature desired, Rpms set to desired vortex/ agitation at hand control, see the entire run & watch beautiful heads fall or correct variables from visually seeing it to ensure good runs, then filter out nice hash & dry it.

The pre chilled water would also be in a resi that’s constantly recirculating

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Circulate hash water through a 5um filter & catch the little heads & then through a .1 & off to start a terpene purification of the water.

Very interested in extracting aroma from the hash water


Seen a few older heads do it. It’s not to complicated, of course you can go about it a few ways so I’ll do a couple different routes & pass out samples of the ones that are desirable.

Respectfully: What is your experimental question?

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Just seeing how many others may have done this or thought about it, what errors they came upon, what things helped, what could help. Either way I’m stil gonna do one

I’m gonna reiterate what someone else asked, and ask you - how do you plan on using liquid water to knock off trichomes at -30F?


Water is being spun in vortex by paddles being controlled at rpm. As long as the water is In motion it should not freeze. As I stated yes there would likely be some build up to form but other than that you’ll be agitating the entire wash. Bio floats more & if you’d be worried of paddles bearing it to hard use a different set or modify them. Same concept as a washer but you can see it all from top to bottom

Not true. Once the entire volume of water is chilled below 0c it will begin to freeze. At -30 it will freeze. You can most likely finish a bubble run before it’s a slushy, but moving water will freeze

I’ll raise temperature up to say 10-15°f & do a test without bio to see how long it may take for any build up of ice or slush to form that way I can give a better time frame of how long the water would allow for before anything like freezing over to occur. In all honesty -30°f is definitely too far cold & would likely start to slush within moments similar to that super cold water trick. Which I’m sure could be useful in other ways after for some post processing.

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Don’t you wanna keep things just above freezing? At a certain point won’t the plant matter get brittle?

At a point yes, but I’m also not going full rpm at all mind you. Let alone even half. Just enough to cause the same light agitation of a hand wash

Ex from hand washed no ice wash at 28°f wasn’t a consistent 28°f but that’s the temp I started my wash at with the water as it was not a fully frozen yet. Pre chilled the vessel to wash in (only did a small amount so wasn’t the reactor yet & inconsistent variables compared to the latter) material was at -10 then added right away into chilled vessel & water followed then did the jingle.

Even though I didn’t have all the microns I would have liked too for filtration the 90-73um came out super clean & has a slightly different texture right onto the spoon. Even the 45um came out pretty.

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I think you just misremembered the freezing point of water and was just making sure that you knew water froze at 0C or 32F. -30F is over a 60 degrees below water’s freezing point. Even a concentrated salt water solution freezes at like -6F.

If you want a hint about ice water, in my opinion it is important that your paddles can rotate in both directions, and that it can switch from fwd to reverse very quickly.

I did think of the last part unfortunately lol. Which may be the one feats a reactor motor doesn’t perform sadly. But did get me thinking which is why I know the only good thing the standard paddle set they come with would be good for only making a vortex.

But yes fluidly I knew water would start to freeze at 32°f not in total freeze over, so thinking about it, then using google fu prior to testing it to see if it was manageable temp / solution. I figured it would start to ice/slurry, but at what rate & if it were possible to keep movement at that temp but then remembered the rate of temp it will start max density is around 2-4°f. So then at any speed -30 would be well, negative. Lol.

There’s no need to go colder than 32F. IMO it is not worth the effort


In all honestly I would rather go a little colder I’m I were to be hand washing as the buildup of motion will cause the temp to start rising by the minute anyways, so why not beat that out from the start.

Now with the reactor it would give a precise condition to hold that temp, so I can see not going full past 32f at that time but still needing to regulate of course as it starts to spike