Does anyone get lower SPD temps and better results without a thermometer in boiling Flask? What about clarity and extremely lower boiling points?

When I first started distilling I used to follow protocol on everything, In time I’ve realize somethings are ineffective and inconvenient. Like using a boiling flask thermometer !

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Now I just add my material, the max temperature my mantles ever had to reach is 70 degrees celcius, I can run a liter of material in less than 35 minutes. The material is immaculate looks better than a liter of distallate out of WFE. I’ve put side to side a liter of WFE commercial liter I’m cutting up for a customer, the color and clarity dont compare to what I am achieving with my Short path. I’m not sure if something is deceiving me but I’ve posted a picture of both, I just want to get an opinion from the seasoned professionals on here always appreciate the insight

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Did you get it tested? Color can be a false indication of potency.

In general, SPD can easily produce a good color. Does the potency always reflect that? Not really.

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Did you have a leak in the thermometer joint and that’s why you have a better product now?

I know I’m having a hard time dealing mine and opted to use the plugs to test out the rest of the system first.

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I do not use a boiling flask thermometer. I slowly ramp up and watch vapor temps. If I increase the heating mantle by 2 degrees I’ll see the same increase in vapor temp when things start moving (100f+).

I feel that if you are sacrificing vaccum depth for knowing what temp the mantle is, switch it around and sac the thermo to save the vaccum. I had success with this move.

Although some may say just replace the equipment with better functioning components. I tend to agree with the concept of “refinement=simplicity” e.g. same results with less equipment

Alternatively you could use a temp gun to see what is going on in the mantle. Although my temp gun jumps around alot so I do not even really use that to gauge boiler temp. My temp gun is now an expensive cat laser toy.

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Just get a glass thermowell that fits the flask if you’re having vacuum leak issues there. Should have glass thermowell on the head too

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No way you’re distilling cannabinoids with a mantle temp of 70C. Period.

If you’re not monitoring it, stating that you know what it is is illogical.

You may be able to set your mantle to 70C, and get distillate. That does not mean your mantle is reaching (or stopping at) 70C. With no feedback, it is simply heating as hard as it can.

Removing a vacuum leak is a win. Decoupling the temp control on the mantle does not strike me as one.

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You can also get analog thermometers with ground glass joints, great for solving head temp probe leaks.

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That’s actually a great idea too

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I promise you aren’t distilling anything at 70c except for volatiles, terps and maybe some water.

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Also the top jar is starting to cloud which indicates improper winterization or improper fraction cutting. WFE will produce better product than short path every time if it is properly dialed and a volatile strip pass is done. With a wiper your temps stay constant and the product is spread so thin that the purity is significantly higher, Short Paths fall prey to mixed boiling points. Such a large volume of oil being heated at once will cause Delta T across the flask and up into the head and fractions will end up refluxing and mixing more.

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That’s where my tails are coming in, it’s obviously not the temp inside the boiling flask, but the max ramp temp on my Mantle is what I am insinuating. Reason I stated the mantle temp is because how fast its distilling before I can build the temp on my mantle.

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Where can I get one of those?

The jar was tilted it wasnt cloudy

USA lab or hit up @david

As a level 2 noobie with a somewhat better hands-on experience than a year ago, i would just specify that not all mantles can be ran without having some probe/regulator attached to the unit. Specifically with the mantle im using, with no probe attached, the temp would ramp up (FULL send) with no chill. With no feedback to the system this could lead to 1) burning-out the mantle, 2) sending your oil into your head, and 3) changing the composition and quality of your target product due to high temps.

Im having the same issue with having leaks due to shitty parts. Its been suggested to maybe instead using my probe in the head, as weve been having little/no leaks there. Though having the probe in the head will create a decent size gap between the time when the mantle begins to heat up and when the probe begins to read a vapor temp to begin regulating the unit. With no calibration, the mantle will still want to blindly and rapidly heat up until we begin to see a vapor temp. Our next step would be ramping down that rate of increase so that we gently reach our fractions vs. sending the mantle to 400C and then having to wait for it to bring itself back down (oil will be ruined by then). All of this is extra and we could just get better parts, but this for our RnD so were just playing around.

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Lololol 70c? Your mantle may say 70c but theres zero chance your pulling cannabinoids at 70c. Especially that fast.
Should get it tested. Your cooking your thc

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Your tails is coming a 70c? What?
Your mantle is probably 240c+ at those speeds.

Idk which jar is which but ideally the 2nd jar is what your after. So if your pulling that off doing it the way you said then fuck it and run it. But i have a feeling the first pic is yours

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Fuck it. Pump oils getting too expensive. Ima just run no pump.
Got 8 L an hour.
Lol

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I remember loudNCLR ran his wiper with out vac .

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Yeah first Jars mine, by the way I got that AC technique down to the tee, props on shit worked like a charm.